The Boiler/heating Megathread- all boiler & heating queries in here please

[FORE 12]

yes! i bled 1 rad on sunday but pressure was only lost today? is that the cause?

 

as already suggested, you will have lost pressure bleeding, and probably just gone over what boiler can accept to fire up since.

 

Repressurise to about 0.6bar when cold, & make note of figure.

 

Check for a few days when everything is cold before heating comes on. See if it can hold this pressure over time.

[leelister6 10]

as already suggested, you will have lost pressure bleeding, and probably just gone over what boiler can accept to fire up since.

 

Repressurise to about 0.6bar when cold, & make note of figure.

 

Check for a few days when everything is cold before heating comes on. See if it can hold this pressure over time.

 

 

Pressurise the boiler to the pressure stated in the boiler manual. If you don't have it you can usually download one from the manufacturers website

[FORE 12]

I thought it may be better to repressurise to a relative working minimum, which I thought would be about 0.5bar, mine packed up at about 0.4 once.

 

If a suspected leak is possible why give it more chance thro' a higher pressure? (polite question intended not an arguement ) Books probably suggest 1-2bar.

[ronthenekred 10]

Also check outside where the pressure release valve pipe exits..if there's a constant drip then the valve will need looking at.

 

If you find that you are topping up on a regular basis and can't find any leaks within the house and the outside pipe is leaking then this could also indicate an expansion vessel problem. If the membrane has gone there's nowhere for the expanded water to go except through the release valve = outside.

 

A good way to ascertain if its a dodgy EV is to pressurise to 1 bar and press the pin within the bleed nipple and see if water comes out, if it does it generally means the membrane is shot.

Edited December 6, 2012 by ronthenekred

[Guest]

Whenever you "bleed" the system you will lose pressure, which should be replaced by using the filling loop.

 

This will at least stop your boiler from not being happy. I had this problem at a previous property which was due to a, old radiator in the cellar very slowly leaking.

[mylo_chan 10]

thanks for all the advise. will keep tabs on the pressure and hope its all well!

[craig12 10]

if changing to a combi from a floor boiler, can you keep your radiators existing and how much mess is involved with flooring etc if any?

we should have changed the boiler on moving in but simply had to spend money elsewhere

are the carpets disturbed to work in the airing cupboard to remove tank

regards.......... ie stairs carpet etc

our boiler is in the corner of our kitchen where 2 corners meet with a round type flue directly outside

Edited March 20, 2013 by craig12

[speleo1 10]

it is possibly so that your carpet are moved to gain acess to the pipe work and floor boards also lifted, that is if they have to,but you will only know by having a gas safe/plumber to see what wants doing, i suppose it can be quite messy dependant on what wants doing

[mc55 10]

so we just had a boiler taken out and changed to a condenser/combi. We also had the water tank removed (from the loft) and the 'hot water tank' (from 'airing cupboard).

 

We also had some new radiators installed and all in all it seemed to be minimal disruption, but we don't have carpets yet in the bathroom etc, so perhaps it was easier to lift floor board etc.

 

Guess it also depends on individual houses to some extent ? We had our boiler moved to the washhouse which involved quite a lot of new piping to connect to the existing pipework, but it caused minimal disruption - but we have cellars which made access very easy.

 

We do however have a great big hole where the boiler used to be in the kitchen and a hole in the kitchen ceiling from where the pipes went into the bathroom.

[FORE 12]

I'm no plumber, but recently had ours done.

There may be a fair bit of carpet disturbance, especially near the new boiler. After all, everything has to get to and from there, including gas (prob 22mm pipe), and electrics.

Strongly suggest you have a 'Magnatec' or similar fitted.

 

Hope you are as pleased with the results as we are!

[GT Electric 10]

Very likely that access to the void between the floors will be needed.

Existing pipework for the heating will be retained, however prepare for possible leaks. Your old system was a gravity fed system from the tanks above.

Your new system will be using mostly mains-pressure hot water. It can find some of the weaknesses in your old system.. So take precautions.. dont leave the house unattended overnight the day they finish..!

And as already stated. Have a magnetec fitted to catch all the old crud in the system BEFORE it gets into your shiny (expensive) new boiler..!!

[sawheating 10]

Hi the mess is really minimal if floor protection is used (I use it). You can keep your existing radiator but if there old you have to bare in mind they might not be up to coping with the pressure of a combi boiler. Also new radiators give out a better BTU (heat) than older ones. Your old radiators will require TRVs to comply with building regs so access to them will be required if you havent already got them. And yes I reccomend having a magna clean fitted (not magnatec as that is engine oil) as they are worth every penny.

Hope this helps. If you have any more question please ask and if you require call me for any advise.

If you want a free written quote please call me on 07875633464

Thank you

Scott