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OP - is this the Cairn Terrier that you posted about a few weeks ago? If so, she is having a lot to cope with and there could be a number of factors, including anxiety. Terriers are easily aroused, very territorial and are known to be barkers. Diet - hopefully it doesn't contain additives/nasties. Exercise - does she get enough? This is an intelligent breed that needs stimulation. IIRC she was the only dog of an elderly person and not in very good condition. She is now having to cope with a new home and sharing her space. Bear in mind that she has probably been under stimulated for some time so some of this could be sheer exuberance and the fact that she is feeling better in herself. Squirting water at a dog is really not on. You need to find out exactly what the problem is. Seek the advice of a professional behaviourist.

Reuben123 is correct. You shouldn't be allowing the pup to go up and down stairs just yet. Also check out the Kennel Club website for advice about exercising puppies. The safest thing to do is to get a safety gate to ensure that your pup cannot access the stairs. In addition to the potential problems that Reuben123 has outlined, there is also the risk of a fracture occurring if he falls down even a couple of steps.

As has been said, veterinary practices usually insist on immediate payment on completion of the treatment. I cannot believe that the practice manager said this without a prior discussion about payment. Did you ask them to wait until the insurance paid out? If so, it is unlikely that they would agree to this, especially if you are not known to them. Practices will sometimes oblige if the client is a long standing one and known to them but mostly the usual procedure is for the pet owner to pay the vet and then submit a claim to the insurance company. Your post is brief with very little information but if the above scenario is correct then you cannot blame the practice for insisting on immediate payment. They are not to know the terms and conditions of your insurance, or even if you have it. I hope that you now have your dog back home and that he fully recovers from the illness.

It will be lovely for her to be clean and tidy - she will look and feel so much better. Matts are uncomfortable for the poor little mites - when close to the skin and tight they tug it. It can take hours to de mat a dog and groomers have to abide by animal welfare laws so clipping is often the only option. From what you say, it sounds like a clip would be the best thing. She would only need to be away from you for a couple of hours. 3 1/2 hours is a long time on the table. I've been stripping my double coated breed for many years but I do it in short sessions so the dog does not get fed up. It can take me a couple of days or so to finish the job but it doesn't matter when doing it at home. Some double coated dogs hate the stripping process anyway. Thank you for the information about the groomer - always useful to know. Good luck with your Cairn - it sounds as if she will have a great new start with you and her new chum.

If the coat is badly matted, the kindest thing you can do is to have your Cairn clipped. The coat cannot be hand stripped in a matted state and it would not be fair to her - it would be very painful indeed. Most groomers will not attempt de matting a dog if it is badly matted. Yes, a coat will be a good thing as she will be cold after her groom.

Please can you tell me who it is that you are going to? Are you booked in for hand stripping? How much do they charge? You don't mention the coat texture or whether she has undercoat. If it is harsh and strip-able and she undergoes a full strip she will be down to her 'vest' and that's not a good thing in the middle of winter. I think you would be better off letting her have a bath and tidy up then a full strip in the Spring. BTW, Cairns are never white but West Highland White Terriers are. Are you sure she not a Westie? The lighter coloured Cairns are wheaten.

Is the coat harsh or silky? Cairn Terriers are double coated; they should have a harsh, outer coat and a softer undercoat. The correct grooming process is to hand strip the coat but it can only be done when it is ready to come out. This varies because all coats are different - some only need a full strip once a year, some twice a year. If the existing coat is soft and silky then your bitch has probably been clipped in the past and it is unlikely that you will be able to return her to the correct coat. For the time being, keep her well brushed and combed - probably two or three times a week. If your Cairn has a harsh coat already, has plenty of undercoat and you wish to have her hand stripped you will need to find a groomer who is experienced in this. The only one I know of in Sheffield is Terri (Hardwick Hounds). Hand stripping is time consuming and hard work so expect to pay circa £40 for a full strip.

Please can you post back with a description of your Cairn's coat - texture, length and colour? We need to know that before commenting on coat care. Also, how old is she and is she used to sharing a home with other dogs? What is her character like?

For people who are considering giving up their pets there is some useful advice in this article. The website is the Pet Owners Association. It is distressing when people decide to give up on their pets, particularly when it is clear that they did not give enough thought to it initially. However, living in a home where it is not wanted is a bad situation for any animal to be in. It can lead to neglect and abuse.

There is no reason why you can't use kibble with a predominantly raw fed dog. The usual advice is not to mix it at the same meal. However, a better choice might be cold pressed dog food as it goes well with raw feeding. Examples are Gentle, Markus Muhle, Black Angus and a new one called Guru but there are more. Also worth considering is freeze or air dried products such as ZiwiPeak and Pure. They just need to be reconstituted with water. A good quality wet food would be another alternative.

There are some recipes for dog food and treats in the Weekend colour supplement so it might be worthwhile asking around for a copy. Some people keep the magazine for the television and radio schedules. The book by Kate Bendix that is the source of the article and recipes is on offer in the Mail bookshop but it is sold out so there must be a lot of interest in the subject. Why Adding "Human Food" to Your Dog's Diet Is So Important is an article which may interest you. It appeared in Dogs Naturally magazine and is written by Rodney Habib. The suggestion is to cut down on the kibble and replace a meal with home cooked food as it will lead to better health for the dog. Obviously it is important to only give food that is safe for dogs.

How to have a healthy dog in just eight weeks is an article by Kate Bendix that appears in the Daily Mail colour supplement today. It covers the importance of canine diet in the prevention of disease, obesity and home made and raw diet. Well worth a read.

Do you think it might help if you minimize the dog's exposure to grass? Perhaps confine him to a gravelled or paved area of your garden and exercise him well away from areas of grass. Sometimes dogs that are allergic to grass tend to get sore on the feet and undercarriage so if you could wash him down after each walk that might help. Some people use socks or boots on their dogs and even onesies. Dogs can absorb allergens via the skin so it is important to bath them to get rid of the pollen that is trapped in the fur. Use a very gentle, soapless shampoo e.g. Sebocalm, that hydrates the skin then it should do no harm to the dog.

Chicken and rice is OK in the short term but as others have said, it is not a balanced diet. Dogs are tempted to eat by smell as well as hunger. Wet food is more palatable and usually has an aroma that is pleasing to the dog. You might therefore want to consider changing to a good quality wet food. Because the dog has a poor appetite you need to make sure that the food she has is good quality and high in protein and fat. In this way she will not have to have much in order to give her the nourishment she needs. Here are some wet products which meet this criteria, many of them being grain free: Billy and Margot Burns Penlan Farm Canagan Evolution Naturediet Natures Menu (several varieties including tins and pouches), Millie's Wolfheart Wainwright's Grain Free. There are more and if you would like to do some research yourself, check out the Dog Food Directory of All About Dog Food and under Filters on the left hand side of the page, select type of food - wet complete. It might be worth looking more closely at those scoring four to five stars as they are the better ones in terms of protein and fat content. Best to avoid any sort of wet food that is sold in supermarkets - they tend to be poorer quality and you need better products for your old dog.

Kennel Club Find a Puppy. North of England Rottweiler Club The Rottweiler Club Scottish Rottweiler Club Rottweiler Breed Council Rottweiler Welfare association Champ Dogs Breed club members should be committed to testing for hereditary diseases before breeding. Check that their lines are clear of any genetic disease. If they are experienced in the breed they will know their lines way back.

There is a Telegraph article here about volunteers who made a Bailey chair for a Retriever that came into the care of Battersea dogs home. Perhaps you could get in touch with them? Even if they just gave you the dimensions etc it would be useful because a template would make it easier for a joiner to build one.

A puppy would be a good companion for your Spaniel but you need to think about yourselves first. Consider carefully because it will be a lot more work and double the expense. If you really want another dog, and in particular a puppy then go for it but your motive needs to be that you really want it, rather than your existing dog needs a companion. If you do decide to go ahead, be aware that your dog might not like the puppy at first. Frequently they get quite irritable with them. It can take time and patience before they start to get along OK. That in itself creates extra work because during this time you really need to keep a close eye on them and never leave them alone together.

Why not go to a charity? After all, that is what they are there for. Not all dogs are suitable for training for a job with someone who has disabilities and it would be a shame if you bought one and the temperament wasn't right. However, if this is what you want to do then it is really important to follow the advice as above i.e. make sure that the dam and sire are both hip and elbow scored and are up to date with their eye tests for Progressive Retinal Atrophy. Also check out the temperament of the bitch and dog. Not sure that a working type would be a good purchase. Expect to pay at least £600 for a good pup with all the tests and papers completed. The Labrador breed clubs would be a good place to start looking because their members usually try to improve the breed and will have done all they can to ensure their pups are sound. The clubs can be found on the Internet.

Pocket - why are you wanting a guide dog for a deaf person? Guide dogs are for blind and partially sighted people. Also, why are you providing the dog to be trained yourself? According to the Hearing Dogs for Deaf People they have their own breeding scheme. As has been said, Labradors have particular genetic problems and must be bred carefully, paying attention to the relevant health checks in both dam and sire. They are a real handful when young, particularly chocolate ones. Added to this, if you purchased a puppy it could well not be suitable for the job - indeed, Hearing Dogs might not accept it for training. Contact the charity and discuss this further before you go out and buy a puppy.

You are now being deliberately provocative and argumentative, despite seeing evidence of this problem. Talking about legal action is quite ridiculous. If you read my opening post you will note the last sentence: "It is not my intention to stop owners giving their dog a Kong - there are dangers all around us. However, this is a risk that many people are unaware of and we can perhaps minimize it with some attention and care. If you wish to give your dog a Kong, please use with caution." I doubt very much whether that could in any way lead to 'legal action'. Also, check out that link again in the first post and you will see that Kong actually admitted some degree of culpability by sending the lady a cheque in compensation. You persistently talk of your own dogs as if they are proof positive of the safety of this toy and yet you have seen evidence that there can be problems with them. Your logic is flawed and I do not intend to argue with you any more. The purpose of this thread is just to make people aware that these toys are not 100% safe, to take care and also what to do should their dog swallow any part of it. This has been achieved. It would therefore be best to leave it at that. Thank you for your useful advice on the safe use of this toy. ---------- Post added 21-11-2015 at 11:40 ---------- Update: This morning I have learned that (as can be expected), Kong are fully aware of this problem and do not guarantee their products as indestructible. The company are in the process of developing a new, tougher range that will only be available from veterinary practices. This product will incorporate barium which will make any swallowed pieces x-ray detectable. This new product is therefore one to look out for, particularly for those owners who have heavy chewers but like to give their dog a Kong. However, it will be necessary to ask about it at the veterinary surgery. I have also been told of a dog that needed veterinary treatment for a piece of Kong that was stuck between teeth so that is possibly another area to watch.

That is precisely why your dogs have been fine with Kongs and why you are therefore expressing incredulity that this actually happens. If you read my opening post, I clearly state that 'Some dogs are able to chew off the top ring and swallow them.' As I have said to you before, your experience is with your dogs and you should not suppose that all are the same. Angel22 has a terrier and these can be very powerful, obsessive chewers. I referred to this fact in the opening post: '* If your dog is an ardent chewer it may be best to avoid Kongs entirely.' You have read the evidence and yet you persist in personalizing this by trying to blame the owner. It is deeply offensive, especially when, as you can already see from this thread that at least one dog has died following the use of this awful product. Trying to score points, especially when one of our members has bravely posted about the death of his/her dog and is still distressed by it is just not on and IMO you should show some sensitivity and apologise.

Oh, I am so terribly sorry about this. What a traumatic experience for all of you. Peritonitis is a big risk with surgery to the bowel. Unfortunately surgery is sometimes delayed because the vet cannot identify it as a foreign body due to x-rays going straight through it. I feel the same as you about Kongs and that is why I posted this. They should either be taken off the market or the risks of them clearly written on the labels. There is nothing about the risks on their website. So many people believe they are perfectly safe and that is not the case. The death of your dog illustrates that even when supervised, Kongs can be dangerous. Thank you for letting us know about this - it must have been so painful for you. If you get the chance, please tell as many dog owners about this as you can because it would seem that lots of people think they are perfectly safe.

Some good advice there Chez2. It is useful for us pet owners to be reminded of safe practice regarding use of toys - thank you. On the subject of Kongs I was reminded yesterday of a friend who gave her dog a brand new one, purchased from Pets at Home. It was the right size and type. The dog chewed through the top ring and detached it within one hour of being given it. Fortunately the owner was present and removed the toy. It would therefore appear that wear and tear may be a significant factor in their safe use, but not always. New products cannot be relied upon to be totally safe. You seem to be puzzled about the detachment of this top ring. I refer you back to the original link here which explains the problem in detail, together with images. Read it carefully and all will become clear. As for experience, please could you tell me why you are trying to personalise this thread, which is about the dangers of Kongs, not about one's experience of dogs? Having had dogs for over forty years, I find that there is always something new to learn. You need to remember, Chez2 that your experience of dogs is just that. The fact that your dogs have so far been safe with Kongs gives a good counter argument but do not suppose that all dogs are like your own.

Do you happen to know whether the packets have this warning on them? I haven't bought one myself for a very long time so I don't know. I would doubt very much whether there is a warning that the top ring can be detached by the dog because the rubber is not strong enough to resist the chewing of it. As for leaving the dog unattended I have seen references to people being advised to use them as pacifiers for dogs with separation anxiety. This is a widely held belief. If Kongs are used, they should be removed from the dog as soon as they are emptied and this cannot be done if the dog is left alone with it. I really think your response to this as being the owner's fault is somewhat misguided. There is a problem with this toy that many people (myself included) do not know of or anticipate. You simply cannot blame owners for not knowing something, especially if there is no warning on the packet. This is a quote from a recent post on here: The poster later said this: She is not at fault in any way - this is a widely held belief and it is this that I am challenging. It is not about blaming owners but educating them because the information is not readily available unless you look for it. You are really missing the point completely by shifting the blame onto the owner and I do not wish to argue about this. It is more important to make people aware of the problem. If you are repeatedly told that they are safe enough to leave with the dog when unattended then it is likely to be believed. There is a design or material problem with this toy and people should be aware of potential dangers when using it. I will leave it at that now - thank you for responding.

Thank you for your comments. Like you, many owners will not have had any problem with Kongs but it is safest not to be complacent. I do not believe that the person who wrote that article was lax. Indeed, she appears to be a very caring, good dog owner. Had she not been, the dog would have died. In my view, this is a case of a design fault in the product and of people believing that they are safe toys. They may simply not be aware of the dangers, especially in certain types of dogs. It is easy to be wise after the event. Accidents happen and if we can minimize the risk then so much the better.