jim lyon

As we now seem to be losing focus, a couple of points that I wish to progress are

GRAPHICS CARDS - I'm still trying to find a "rule of thumb" that allows me to work out the maximum energy requirements of a card that my media centre can cope with e.g. is it by assuming that the card should be no more than a certain %age of what the media centre supplies? - And if so, what are the acceptable limits? Or is it usually expressed as when the energy requirements of the card are subtracted from what the power supply of the PC, then there needs to be a certain reserve for the PC to run other (internal) operations, - Or, as some comments on the internet infer, card manufacturers rate e.g. a card as 350 watts because it's intended to work on a 350 watt system? - I've also seen implications on the 'net that I could run a 350 watt card on a 350 watt computer OK, but if I were to also use the computer to drive a lot of "add ons", then I'd run into problems, but only in that things wouldn''t operate?

TV CARDS - Originally, I assumed that terms such as dual tuner meant that it was able to accept two TV channels, e.g. that I could do what I can with a TV & DVD recorder i.e. record one TV channel, whilst watching another ( which is why I originally wanted to upgrade to, as my present card only allows me to watch/record one channel only)

What I'd like to do is to prepare for FreeSat HD. Ghozer suggested a Quad Tuner card - but I haven't been able to find specs for one that gives recording on one channel, whilst watching another ( they may well do, but I haven't seen any specs. that say so! )

My present understanding is that Quad tuner means the product recieves 4 types of TV signal - analogue ; DVB-T (freeview) ; DVB-S (freesat) and DVB-S2 (HD). So, initially I thought that meant that I should go for DVB-S, BUT, it seems that some HD channels (eg: BBC) use DVB-S, others (such as C4) use DVB-S2. To further complicate that, BBC has stated that it's considering switching its HD channels to DVB-S2, BUT DVB-S2 is not compatible with Windows 7 (which I'm thinking of upgrading to [ i.e. 64 bit version ] ). - Anybody care to give me some further guidance?

I'm going to repost your PM here, I hope you don't mind,

Well, unfortunately, if you'd waited for part 2, then technically, you'd have had a much better idea of what I'm on about.

there's nothing in it that I can imagine you are worried about keeping secret.

As for going public, in a society as dysfunctional as ours, you never know who's out there, just looking for a chance to go off @ half ****.(If you're aware enough of the true reality of our society, you'll understand what I'm getting @, & if not it'd mean getting into a 4 hour conversation, & though I have the understanding to do that, it's not what I'm here for.)

Belkin make networking products, I wonder if what you are thinking is an aerial is actually an wifi card (probably USB).

So, what you are talking about doing (probably) is making a better aerial (a real one) in order to get a signal to an existing wifi adaptor (the belkin device you've got) and then using someone elses broadband.

There are several issues with that. The first being a moral and legal one, it's not your wifi, you shouldn't use it.

Well, I don't really want to get into this, but that's a very conventional point of view that would seem to include accepting capitalisms lack of values or morality as being reasonable, etc.

I seem to remember before Thatcher-Reagan knocked the West into covert neo Fascism there was a time when the internet was going to be free. But then the modern capitalist robber barons took over, & are now effectively pricing knowledge & information out of the reach of the poor. If you wish to discuss morality, there's a more balanced starting point !

A more technical hurdle is that it's likely to be encrypted and you don't sound like someone who is going to have the technical ability to hack that.

So, what you should do, is plan to get broadband installed yourself, possibly with a wifi router, maybe just with wired. You can get it from your phone provider or from virgin or sky or many other providers, it'll cost you at a minimum about £15 a month.

Deleted because it was duplicated !

<SNIPPED>

 

I'm not sure we're on the same wavelength with regards to wifi (see what I did there, wavelength).

 

Try to explain what you're thinking about with wifi and we'll try to work out what it is.

I've sent you a PM. It was going to be 2 PMs ( as in one in 2 parts, because of the limits set by the "management"), but apparently your PM box is full ! - I 'll be back on Fri, & hopefully be able to give you the links that I was unable to send. Alternatively, if you prefer not to be limited by the PM system, you've now got my e-mail addy.

 

 

QUOTE]

QUOTE=Ghozer;5689311]Since we have been over the other stuff countless times..

While it might feel like that, not quite. e.g. if my media centre produces 350 watts, then what is the maximum amount of energy I can devote to game playing? Or to word that differently, what's the max. power consumption of graphics card I can use? - Can this be expressed (as a rough "rule of thumb" as a %age of the media centre's power supply?

TV Tuner Card -- Dual tuner is easily possible, most decent ones have that now, you would be looking around £40 - something like this.. http://www.ebuyer.com/product/143322

That's more like it - In the write up it talks about Vista. Now are cards like this "dedicated" to only one o.s.? - As I'm thinking of upgrading to 64 bit Win 7.

That does both Analog and DVB-T (Digital) tuning and recording, as well as AM and FM radio (analogue only though I believe)

You can also get quad tuners which support HD satellite

Apart from supporting HD satellite, do "quad" runers do anything else?

as well as the other normal stuff, but they are around £120 -- http://www.ebuyer.com/product/123725

OK, I'm also interested in getting FreeSat (possibly next spring). Going back to my first comment, would I need to tie in getting a quad tuner card with installing 64 bit Win 7 @ the same time? - With this card, or a different /similar one?

Thanks for the links, nuch appreciated

You quote things by using the [ quote ] and [ /quote ] tags (without the spaces).

 

JL - Sorry, but that doesn't work either. The Sheff. public library system is failing (& has been for over a year), & Sheffield Forum keeps either timing me out or telling me my message is too short, & I can't get the computer time to put up with it, so I 'll have to find a different way around those obstacles.

 

General Statement

 

My position is that I want value for money upgrades, & to avoid the law of diminshing returns. From what I've seen, games are now splitting into PC games or game specific consoles.

Given the above, & from what I've read on the thread, I'm in favour of upgrading my 32 bit Vista o.s. to 64 bit Win 7, & having 4 gb memory. Later on, when prices aren't so silly, then I might well look more closely @ e.g. a PS3

 

Taking photos of the PC is so far down your list that it's not going to happen? Then any meaningful upgrade isn't likely to happen either is it?

 

While that's open to interpretation, my situation is that I don't have a suitable camera, or know how to send jpegs, or get any like enough time @ the public library to learn . Not only is their system failing, but their way of meeting the demand is to ration access, & anyway, their staff aren't trained to a point where they can help...

 

WiFi

 

Given the unreliability of the library system, not too surprisingly, I want to get off it. But what I wan t to do is to go down a different road. And while I understand what I want to do @ concept level, what I really want to know is, is there anybody on this forum who has the expeience to build me a homemade WiFi receiving system? If not, does anybody know where I can get one made? And failing those choices, where should I best start to look?

 

Graphics cards

 

According to what I've read, my E520 gives 350 watts, but the Nvidia 9800GT seems to require 400 watts. As clearly a PC has to run other things apart from just the card, what's the max. wattage of card I can fit, & can anybody suggest any suitable cards? - Or would I be better to go for the 9800GT ( or similar ) & uprate the PSU?

 

TV card

 

We don't seem to be getting anywhere on this one. But I do know that I'm interested in a dual tuner card. Anybody have some more info?

 

Cheers,

Jim

I seem to remember that, MANY decades ago, when the internet was first talked about, it was going to be free! - since them, all we've got is a load of capitalist modern day "robber barons" ripping us off @ EVERy opportunity. - So, as these people ( not every one) choose to play a rigged game, then doing what ever it takes to crerate a level playing field is fair. ( Kobayashi Maru scenario to any Trekkies out there.- YOU now what I mean by that !

Cheers,

Jim

Firstly, it sounds like you can upgrade your ram, by filling the other 2 slots... they are currently in what's called "Dual Channel" mode, which increses performance...

PCI-Express is the standard, and 2.0 should work fine as you said.

As for Memory manufacturers, it depends on your budget, and what make you already have in there..

JL - Dell supplies 1gb, & it's my present understanding that nobody supplies 3 gb upgrade kits.? So, it seems to me that, rather than an upgrade, I'd have to remove the existing cards & replace them with a 4 gb memory kit?

as for 4GB vs more... you shouldn't really need more than 4GB,

JL - Probably not, it's just that I like to keep my options open...

BTW, I note that some graphics / games cards have different energy demands e.g. the Nvidia 9800 GT that I originally mentioned requires 400 watt, but the other one suggested ( GeForce GT240 ), which seems to have slightly less specs. on a website comparison, only requires 300w, whereas my computer is only good for 350w. Should I be thinking of getting a more powerful computer power supply unit?

Any chance of some info on dual tuner TV cards?

and your board may not support any more than 8GB, or possibly even 4GB max.

If you could post some pictures of the inside of your computer using something like photobucket.com etc, then we can identify the things for you..

JL - Sorry, but apart from being in recovery / replacement mode after divorce ; having a house "with potential" (as the estate agents so charmingly put it ), that kind of thing is so far down my list of priorities that likely it'll never happen.

On the other hand, if you ( or anybody you can recommend? ) can build a home made WiFi receiving system, then I'm definitely VERY interested in that !

or, I (or someone else willing) could come and take a look, and tell you what's what and advise further, in person.

JL -Thanks for the kind offer, & although we're not there yet, it may well come to that.

Hi,

Firstly, sorry about "if you have further questions then please consider that (at least for my poor addled brain) answering queries about one huuuuge relatively dis-jointed post like your last one can be somewhat difficult". The reasons for jumping about are partly that I like to study my options, & partly because being a novice, I simply don't know my way about, e.g. regarding my earlier comments about chaging backwards & forwards between Vista & XP was before I (just) found out about the new to "clean install" & how much work it requires !

Having had a chance now to look around Amazon customer reviews, despite some of the more extreme comments, I admit to now leaning in the direction of Windows 7, if only to get 64 bit version & the fact that upgrading from Vista is cheaper.

In passing, by "passively cooled graphics", do you mean has a heat sink?

I've had the cover off my tower & tried comparing it with the picture that "Steev" supplied. While mine is broadly similar, in detail there are differences e.g. I appear to have 4 memory slots, but instead of being yellow, they're black with hinged hooks @ each end, presumably to lock the card in place. Counting from the top, slots 2 & 4 are occupied, & they have off white retaining hooks, slots 1 & 3 are empty, & they have black retaining hooks. - I've heard that Win7 "Home Premium" allows up to 16 gb RAM. You guys are recommending 4 gb. Does that mean you think there;s little (if anything) to be gained by going beyond 4 gb RAM? - With regards to brands of RAM memory kits, I've come across Kingston & Corsair ,etc. but don't know who's best...

Although I've presumably got a TV & graphics card in my tower, being unable to differentiate, all I see is printed circuits of different sizes! - However, on the same side as the memory slots, but @ the bottom I can see some smaller printed circuit boards & below that a ( much shorter than memory ones) slot in white plastic that's empty

Whilst searching the 'net, my son came across some software that self scans my computer & tells me my specs. Apparently my graphics card takes PCI Express & elsewhere he found that cards that take PCI Express 2.0 are backwards compatible with what I've got.

With regards to dual tuner TV cards, while I've done some searches, despite that, I'm really none the wiser, so I'd appreciate some help on that point to clue me up....

As for "steev"'s comment "made of lots of aluminium, a few rivets & lovingly crafted by the lowest bidder" reminds me of the saying "Good enough for government work !"

Cheers,

Jim

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the responses, even though some of it is a little over my head & sorry if my response is slow ( although I've got a media centre, as I can't afford to go on the internet just yet, I get my internet access from the public library system, which is not only old, antiquated [ Windows 2000 ] & a failing system, but access is rationed, so I NEVER get the time to browse around & learn stuff - sigh ! ), as I implied, my 'net access is quite limited.

So, knowing next to nothing about computers, I hope you'll be gentle with me.

When Steev says I could do with more memory, I presume he's referring to this part of my specs that I quoted " RAM is 1,022 Mb " & despite the slight mismatch in numbers, that'll consist of 2x 512 mb sticks? & depending on what I've physically got, I might need to replace rather than add/upgrade? - What do you mean by DDR2 memory? - And if I go for uprating the (RAM?) memory to 4 gb, (& in passing, while I don't know what kind of processor I've got, if it isn't "dual core", is it worth upgrading to one? ) then whatever Windows software I use, it's better to be 64 bit (does that last bit make that much of a difference?)? - So, logically, if I do go for 64 bit software, then I might as well go for Windows 7? ( My reservations were mainly with regard to the fact that "new" software is only 1/2 developed when the public first get it & really it needs a few years of public usage & feedback to create a "mature" software system. So, my first reacttion to Windows 7 is that it's only likely to exacerbate that problem ! However, Weazel2006 seems quite impressed with it ! - What I'd been thinking about is, is it possible to run two software systems "side by side", just changing from one to the other as needed? ( & how easily is that done?) the idea behind that is to mainly use an older, more "mature" system for a few years until there are enough downloads to debug the newer system? - Having already got far more than enough problems in my life, I don't need to go round looking for any more - sigh ! )

Thanks for the piccy (& I'm not in a position to do any of my own), but it doersn't mean that much to me, as my trade used to be airframe technician - am I looking @ some kind of terminal board where you slot in memory sticks, graphics cards ( never seen them before)? - BTW, while 9800GT may be a good choice, it was a friends

recommendation, not mine !

With regard to this comment "if you're doing a media centre PC then track down a passively cooled one, those little graphics card fans are noisy little sods.", I'm not building up a media centre from scratch, I've already got a Dell E520 Dimension, & while it seems pretty good ( but what would a novice like me know? ), as is so often the case, some parts seem to be done down to a price. By passively cooled, I assume you're referring to a tower that doesn't use a fan? Or is it the card that has a built in fan? ?

"Ghozer" said "MS has released a (rather large download) XP mode for windows 7 to make running older programmes less problematic," - Is this download built into Windows 7, or does it come separately? If the later, can you supply a link ( my son runs XP on his computer ) where I can get it?

While I don't know how long this thread will run, what would be of great help is knowing where I can get bits from (either locally, or online) & some idea of the price I can expect to pay ( granted some of that depends on whether I end up adding or replacing bits) & that also includes a dual channel TV card, but I don't want to get sucked into banging my head against the law of diminshing returns - as far too often, that tends to be financially painful - LOL ! So, like I said, I'm after sensible upgrades.

Cheers,

Jim

Hi!

For some time I've been thinking of upgrading my computer, & seeing as you've been there, I wondered if you might be abler to help?

Rather than going totally silly, I was thinking in terms of "value for money", meaningful upgrades. - With regards to space which @ over 400gb, I'm hardly pushed for ( but if it became an issue, then I could always fit an external hard drive ). If I were thinking of upgrading the RAM & memory, is there any particular optimum or balance between the two that I should look for?

My Dell E520 (though Dell also refer to it as a DM061 [ so I assume that's parts from a previous model they're referring to?] ) processor is Intel ® core 2 CPU [email protected] GHz RAM is 1,022 Mb System type Vista 32 bit operating system.

While I wanted a multi media centre, I never particuularlly wanted Vista or the compatibility problems that go with it ( as in it's an "immature" system that needs more debugging & developing) - Is there any easy way where I can also fit Windows XP & easily change between the two (as in some PC games are now beginning to come out specifically intended for Vista, so keeping it is worthwhile, but certainly @ this stage I think I'd prefer tbo use XP for most uses.)?

While the games/graphics card is a cheap one ( obviously intended to keep the manufacturers profit margins healthy) & the Nvidia 9800 GT seems worth considering. Probably of more interest to you is that the present TV card only allows me to watch OR record, not both. So, I'm looking @ the idea of fitting a dual channel digital TV card, so that I can watch one channel, whilst recording another. As this is an area that I know practically nothing of, have you got any recommendations?

Here's a google search which hopefully will help you more than it does me.

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=Dual+channel+digital+TV+cards+for+PCs&btnG=Google+Search&meta=&aq=f&oq=

Apart from being electrically compatible, do I have to worry about graphics or TV cards physically fitting the motherboard? - Which could lead to problems with buying it from one place & getting it fitted elsewhere i.e. I 'd have to make sure that, worst case scenario, it would be returnable?

Are there any other "meaningful" upgrades that anybody can suggest?

Cheers,

Jim

Hi!

Thanks for the input - much appreciated ! - At least I now know it's a known problem & that there's probably a relatively painless solution to it. Especially as being able to get back 500 gb of memory capacity is going to make life a lot easier.

Cheers,

Jim

Hi!

I'm having problems with a Western Digital "Elements" 500gb (U.S.B. 2.0) external hard drive. After just over a year of use, a message came up on the EHD saying "Device needs formatting". but when I did that, it loads up to a certain point, but won't complete formatting, no matter how long it's left.

That's the basic problem, & while I feel it best to supply some context to the above, even as a PC novice, I tend to doubt that it's particularlly relevant, but here goes anyway. - Mostly the EHD has been used with a seven year old Compag PC (running on Windows XP software) purchased from Dixon's (in order to supplement it's rather limited memory). But more recently was used SEVERAL TIMES without any problems for transferring information to a Dell E520 Dimension multi media centre, running on Vista software. The only problems that end seem to be compatability problems with games that are pre Vista (i.e. they show up straightaway, whereas initially the EHD was OK with the Dell Dimension).

If anyone is in a position to help, that would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Jim

Hi!

One thing I'm still trying to obtain a second opinion on (because I first heard it from a salesman ! ) is that flaking paint on the soffits & fascia/bargeboard (which I've got plenty of) doesn't merely indicate the need for a repaint, but that, because they're so damp, the wood is flexing. The implication being that the dampness will then get into the eaves & eventually damage the roof, which will cost very serious money. - While that's a plausible theory (certainly for a novice), how likely is it to be true, & if so, what sort of time scale am I looking at? - Months - tens of years?

Cheers,

Jim

I think you may have taken offence at something i've posted.

Was only offering help, advice, free quote.

Good luck getting thing sorted with who ever you use.

 

When I go off @ 1/2 ****, you'll know.

"I think you may have taken offence at something i've posted."

JlL - Nope. No problems with anybody here.

Was just offering a possible temporary solution as not everyone is fortunate enough to be in a position where they can get something like this done, plenty of people would have to save hard to get this done.

Advice comes free, everything else, well.........................

JL - Er, what makes you think it's any different for me?

As I've said, @ this stage I just want to know the lie of the land so that I don't go off@ 1/2 ****!

You could of course just get the leaking joint sealed for now, a quick, easy (and cheap) job.

True, but I also happen to believe in PREVENTATIVE maintenance e.g. "a stitch in time saves nine". - Especially as while I can afford one "stitch", I certainly can't afford nine (e.g. a new roof ! ) - Not only that, IF it's needing done soon (ish), I'd rather get it done around then, rather than wait until I'm too old & past getting such potential problems solved

Cheers,

Jim

Agree Hank

 

Just read my post back- the design I described -the gutter does not not sit on the soffit -my error -it actually attaches to the trusses via metal strapping brackets -the facia is then constructed on a vertical plane in line with the edge of the gutter and the soffit is attached accordingly the down pipe is cut through the soffit and with and elbow joint runs neatly down the wall --the gutter and down pipe are usually metal ( cast iron) -alot of council houses are like this-hope this clears it up- cant post pics as my Hnc is in building construction-when it comes to IT Im a pure novice- open to instruction though!!!!

 

Chris

Hi!

Firstly, there are a number of people who've approached me offering free quotes. While I realise that's probably because of the recession, @ present, I'm just in "information gathering mode", so I 'll make a note of the contacts & come back on them if I need to.

Right, being a complete novice, by "soffit", I'm referring to what I now understand are the bottom /horizontal panels & the vertical Fascias/bargeboards (?) The above description & the middle diagram in

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...x1/soffits.gif

seems pretty close to what I've got. Also, other houses in my street that don't have "soffits" have the roof rafters projecting out from the wall. Not having seen inside my "soffits", it seems reasonable @ this point to assume that's what I've got.

While I know little of the history of the house, I'm simply saying that the house was built around the mid (?) 1930s. And while it looked OK when I first bought it, in the last few years, the paint is flaking quite a bit, there's definitely a leak in the front corner after it rains. According to the horror stories I've been told, that means that the whole contraption is damp & starting to rot, & eventually, that'll affect the roof. Granted I've my doubts about the source of that (a salesman for a national company !), but it still needs to be checked out.

Any more specific advice would be welcomed!

Cheers,

Jim

Hi!

I've got a 70+ year old 2 bedroom semi, ex council house. The soffits are not only looking decidely scruffy but are starting to leak. While I admit to knowing damn all about them, I've been led to believe that, if ignored for too long, then eventually they will cause more serious problems in the roof. I also know that national based companies are only too happy to quote silly prices for replacing them.

Which leads me to wonder, why do I need soffits @ all? As far as I can see, they're purely decorative & don't actually do anything. Not only that, many houses don't even have them ! - So, is there any good reason that I shouldn't simply havev them removed? Probably I'd need to have the timber in the eaves checked out & protected with a sealant, & possibly even the drainage pipes replaced. If so, does anybody have a realistic idea of the costs I'm looking @? And can you recommend a reliable, value for money local building firm to do the job?

Cheers,

Jim

Hi!

Sorry for the delay, but I got side tracked with some more problems.

But thanks for the input. When I got a chance to have another look @ it based on your comments, I couldn't find anything obviously wrong, so with the lid off, I decided to switch it on (& off again in a hurry!) in order to better check for leaks. Surprisingly it worked OK, with no problems.

Thinking about it, the only difference was in the amount of washing powder in that compartment. - It seems that as there are baffles @ the rear of the washing powder trays (presumably to better mix the powder), they, with too much powder restrict the rate the powder-water exits that compartment. Any excess water coming in simply overflows & comes out the front of the powder loading compartment. - So, using less powder solved the problem. -If only all problems had such easy solutuions!

Cheers,

Jim

Hi!

A couple of months ago I got a (new to me) washing machine (I believe it's about 12-18 months old) Beko AA class 1,000rpm front loading washing machine, As this generation is new to me, initially I had a few problems e.g. working out that if you don't empty the filter in the bottom right hand corner before use, it tends to back up & flood the drum you put the clothes in. But after learning about that, it seemed to work OK for a while.

THE problem I've now got is that, having selected the cycle (& which cycle doesn't seem to make any difference), when I switch on, water starts pouring out from underneath the (top left hand corner) drawer where you load the washing powder. Opening & closing the powder loading drawer (to make sure it's properly shut) doesn't make any difference. - BTW, when opening the powder loading drawer after the flooding & having switched off, the left hand compartment has been emptied of powder, but not the right hand one.)

I've had the top lid off & checked for any obvious loose or blocked pipes e.g. from the powder loading compartment to the drum, but can't see anything obvious. Trouble is it's difficult to do any trouble shooting with the machine working, in order to try & trace the source, as it floods the kitchen so quickly I have to shut down inmmediately.

Any suggestions as to what I should try next? - TIA !

Cheers,

Jim

Moving on to the next question, which is about insulation. - I've just had some of that yellow glasswool fitted, & now I want to fit a floor on it (well most of it as it's impractical to go right out to the eaves - & probably best not to, in order to let it breathe). So, is it OK to compress 9" of glasswool into about 4 or 5" of floorspace? I know physically it can be done, but will that reduce the effectiveness of the glasswool by reducing its airspace? - Or to word that differently, is there a ratio (of insulation to minimum space) for working out minimum acceptable effectiveness?

If that's a problem, would I be best to remove a layer before fitting the floor?

Cheers,

Jim

See here

 

http://www.sheffieldforum.co.uk/archive/index.php/t-201971.html

JL - Thanks for the "heads up" !

Hi!

I want to put a floor in my loft, & do it on the CHEAP, that means I wish to avoid the prices that places like Arnold Laver & B&Q charge.

While I haven't worked it out exactly (doesn't seem much point until I know what sizes suppliers provide), butI do know I'm looking @ just over 250 foot of 2" x2" to level the floor joists & enough planking or strong panelling to cover just over 300 sq. ft. for the floor. Can anybody recommend where I should start looking for these materials? (BTW, I live in Shiregreen) - TIA !

Cheers,

Jim

when i had my cooker fitted they fitted the new type bayonet fitting so you could disconnect and reconnect yourself, i think this is what Andco meant

JL - Fair enough. If that's true, it would certainly help to avoid having to pay call out fees for CORGI registered gas fitters to do a job I'm quite capable of doing myself !

Now, does ANYBODY know of a cheaper source for getting second hand gas cookes fitted??