Wood burning stoves

[big_g 10]

^^

 

Can you not just knock through the wall so that the flue pipe exits bihind the stove and then enters a double skinned flue bolted to the outside wall - a bit like the ones that you see on catering (chinese takeaway/chip shop) premises? The flue outside would have to be insulated otherwise it will probably not pull.

 

Alternatively (and probably better), what about some black stove pipe from the top of the stove, throught the ceiling and through the roof. Is it to be fitted into a single storey extension?

 

G

[big_g 10]

 

flues ...... although a flexible liner is the quickest and maybe the cheapest option... dont go that way straight away ... 10 year guarantee usually.

 

look towards the sock and sealant option .. 25 years warranty ....and not usually much different in cost ..

 

 

What's the sock and sealant method? I've seen that there are two types of flue liner - both stainless. Can't remember the lower number but stainless 904 had a warranty of 25 years, IIRC. Blummin' expensive though.

 

We've put off getting a wood burner as we know that the chimney will need lining. Standard pre-war (1934) semi. Add to that the cost of the stove and we're talking a long time for pay back. Not ruling it out completely though.

[vwkittie 10]

We've got a multifuel stove and it's great!

 

We just fitted it ourselves, it's a piece of pee so long as your chimney doesn't need lining.

[jl-heating 10]

they are very easy well done ...

 

remember though if any appliance can cause death by CO2 poision it is an open flued appliance of which you have just fitted with no training or any idea what so ever what you are doing .

 

without the correct paperwork your house insurance is invalid if there is a chimmney fire or a problem with the appliance.

 

these competence schemes are for the safety of the customer and are to help cut down the amount of death from carbon monoxide,

 

its one thing fitting it your self its another telling other people to ..!!

[espadrille 10]

which ever stove you buy look towards an air wash design it will help to keep the front glass clean. clear view does use the air wash design...

 

it all depends on were the air is drawn in .

 

in a smokeless area there are a few different designs available.. but over the coming months lots more will be available.. all due to the time that is req to put under test and regulate .

 

although you could fit anything in any area a hetas engineer would not fit if not the correct appliance as it would be frowned upon and not be able to notify the appliance to building control .

 

flues ...... although a flexible liner is the quickest and maybe the cheapest option... dont go that way straight away ... 10 year guarantee usually.

 

look towards the sock and sealant option .. 25 years warranty ....and not usually much different in cost ..

 

remember also depending on the size of the chimmney it may need insulating if using a steel liner to cut down on condensation this can depending on which method you use cost up to 400 pound..

 

quote "

 

Reasons for lining and insulating a chimney

 

When using a woodburning or multifuel stove

 

* Insulating your chimney liner reduces tar and soot deposits thereby reducing the risk of chimney fire.

* Lining your chimney creates a continuous smooth chimney with less surfaces for tar / soot to condense onto. Tar that does form can flow directly back to the stove to be recombusted as opposed to building up in the rough crevices of a masonry chimney.

* Insulating your chimney liner increases the temperature of the flue gases which in turn will tend to improve the draw of a chimney since warm air rises.

* Lining your chimney will cure problems of smoke leaking out through cracks in a masonry chimney.

* Lining your chimney will stop new tar from leaking out through cracks in the chimney or onto your stove.

* If your chimney is very large then lining your chimney for use with a stove can be a safer option as flue gases in a large chimney cool very quickly resulting in a high level of condensates which are hard to remove when sweeping.

* Containing the flue gases in a pipe of consistent diameter maintains the flow and velocity of the gases in the system - ie the flue gases will travel faster. This will reduce deposits (as the gases spend less time in the chimney and cool less) and will also improve draw.

 

 

etc etc .. advise is exaustive ....... the list is endless. feel free to ask questions..

Thanks

 

I have decided to get the chimney cleaned/swept and lined, still getting quotes for this, but need to order the best wood burning stove that has the airwash design and many people tell me the Clearview are the best, but I am open to options.

[espadrille 10]

What's the sock and sealant method? I've seen that there are two types of flue liner - both stainless. Can't remember the lower number but stainless 904 had a warranty of 25 years, IIRC. Blummin' expensive though.

 

We've put off getting a wood burner as we know that the chimney will need lining. Standard pre-war (1934) semi. Add to that the cost of the stove and we're talking a long time for pay back. Not ruling it out completely though.

 

But if you stay in the house then you reap the rewards with the reduction in your gas bill.

[gazzab 10]

Can anyone recommend someone in Sheffield area to line a chimney? thanks

[davescotwood 10]

[This should really be a new thread, but I couldn't work out how to ...]

 

Night burning advice please - to keep down tar in chimney?

------------------------------------------------------------------

Some help please. I've had conflicting advice on limiting the tar build up

(and hence the chimney fire risk) from a woodstove;

I understand all about day-time hot burning and the must of properly dried wood

and hard & soft wood differences, BUT...

Overnight: Some say let it out and relight in the morning. Apart from being a bit of a pain, it occurs to me that when relighting from cold, smoke & tar may well be more than if burning up from warm/hottish if left alight.

I usually half fill it mid-late evening, burn it up nice and hot, then close it down. This gives enough glowing ash in the morning to revive easily. But the tarring from doing this slow overnight burn??

 

Any opinions???

Edited September 23, 2010 by davescotwood

[vix2000 10]

Alternatively (and probably better), what about some black stove pipe from the top of the stove, throught the ceiling and through the roof. Is it to be fitted into a single storey extension?.......

 

Anyone any advice on the possibiliy/legality of this method? What if the roof is triple polycarbonate? Thanks

[deputydog7 10]

northderbyshire chimney came to ours a couple of years ago,and did a good job,at agood price and we got a hetas certificate.he rcommended a tiger+ multifue stove,which i bought from 1 of his suppliers and he collected.he supplied and fitted a flue and registar plate for us.i think it nocks out 6.5kw when burning anthrizite but before talking to the guy i was looking on ebay for stoves that nock out 9.5kw glad we didnt get 1 as the tiger+ is really powerfull and after a hour or so we have to open some doors.i would recommend both n our lass now wants 1 fitting in front room .but you will need a good supply of fuel to burn,i wish we had one of those valves fitted in the down pipe so its easier to regulate ,cause even on lowest setting it gets dam hot n it would also make my wood last longer !

the room it is in is 4m x 4m n we had to makesure there was a air vent in it,we needed a flue cause smoke was escaping into next doors chimney but i have b een told by others its best to have 1 anyway cause you get a better draw on the fire.northderbyshire come back and clean it for £35.

hope this helps

[megalithic 10]

Bushbuddy.

[MarkFinch 10]

I dont know how long this thread has been going on for (seems like years) but for anyone who is interested,

I got a really good deal from a place on Abbeydale road (Burgin Conservatories) we got a clearview stove which is a wood burner standing about 3 feet high, very nice and very reasonable price too http://www.burgin-conservatories.co.uk