The Boiler/heating Megathread- all boiler & heating queries in here please

[Snowbird 10]

The council fitted me a new heating system in the spring and now I am freezing!The radiator in the hall has no controls so I cannot turn it down or off. The thermostat is also in the hall so has soon as the hall gets hot it turns off the heating even though the lounge is still not warm. I asked about the hall radiator having no controls when it was being fitted and I was told it had to be like that! Can anyone tell my why or am I the only one that thinks this is pretty stupid?

[corgigasman 10]

The council fitted me a new heating system in the spring and now I am freezing!The radiator in the hall has no controls so I cannot turn it down or off. The thermostat is also in the hall so has soon as the hall gets hot it turns off the heating even though the lounge is still not warm. I asked about the hall radiator having no controls when it was being fitted and I was told it had to be like that! Can anyone tell my why or am I the only one that thinks this is pretty stupid?

 

It is normal for the stat to be in the hallway and that radiator not to have a TRV for the system to work correctly. It is possible to either turn the stat up, or, take the caps off of the hall radiator and turn the valves down slightly (turn clockwise to close), that way the stat will not reach the set temperature so quickly and the heating will stay on. Hope this helps, Steve

[monkiop 10]

The boiler header tank in our loft has started overflowing continuously because it looks like the ball valve isn't shutting off fully. We've checked there is nothing holding the ball down, which there isn't, and even lifting the ball up doesn't seem to turn the flow off. Can anyone offer any advice, or is it a case that the valve is going and needs replacing?

[Complete-Heat 10]

its perished...swop it over for a new one.

 

andy

[JBradleybz 10]

The boiler header tank in our loft has started overflowing continuously because it looks like the ball valve isn't shutting off fully. We've checked there is nothing holding the ball down, which there isn't, and even lifting the ball up doesn't seem to turn the flow off. Can anyone offer any advice, or is it a case that the valve is going and needs replacing?

 

Hi i would save time and just replace the ball valve cheers jon at JB Heating Services.

[monkiop 10]

Thanks. Presumably it would be a pretty quick job for a plumber to sort out? How much would we be talking?

[JBradleybz 10]

If the access to the top of the tank is easy its not much of a job, i take it its the small tank the central heating header tank.

[JBradleybz 10]

Hi as steve says i would try to balance the hall radiator down so that it limits the heat in the hall then your stat will keep the heat on longer cheers jon at JB Heating Services.

[monkiop 10]

Access to the tank is pretty easy. It an open top and some (but not all) of the loft is boarded.

[muckymurphy 10]

leaking gas fire. there is gas leaking from the control valve stem. it is only leaking when the fire is on (at the moment) we only noticed it because it ignited into a large yellow flame reaching up to the normal flames. there is no leak when the fire is off. the fire is 6 or 7 years old and has to be lit using a flame as the piezo is no longer working. my question is - is there a replaceable washer/seal in this control valve that needs replacing - does it need fresh lubricant sealing (boss white) or will i have to replace the whole valve control assembly?

i am not looking for an engineer or a health and safety lecture, just solid advice.

pm's preferred as i don't want replies to get lost in this thread.

[JBradleybz 10]

leaking gas fire. there is gas leaking from the control valve stem. it is only leaking when the fire is on (at the moment) we only noticed it because it ignited into a large yellow flame reaching up to the normal flames. there is no leak when the fire is off. the fire is 6 or 7 years old and has to be lit using a flame as the piezo is no longer working. my question is - is there a replaceable washer/seal in this control valve that needs replacing - does it need fresh lubricant sealing (boss white) or will i have to replace the whole valve control assembly?

i am not looking for an engineer or a health and safety lecture, just solid advice.

pm's preferred as i don't want replies to get lost in this thread.

 

If its the same part as im thinking of on the gas control isolation valve

or some call them butterfly valves then they can be stripped down and lubricated with graphite grease.

This does need to be done by a gas safe registered engineer cheers jon

at JB Heating Services.

[Micky ET 10]

Not lecturing but I wouldn't risk my life for the sake of a £48 repair (if it is just a simple nut tighten ) if I couldn't afford it I would save up !

 

Gas fires are open flued and draw their combustion air from the room in which they are located so if fixed wrong will produce carbon monoxide quicker.