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The Boiler/heating Megathread- all boiler & heating queries in here please

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Thanks for the reply Dan,

it does sound complicated, not sure whether to leave it be and shower a bit quicker,

I'm thinking of a cubicle shower put in so may leave it til then.

hazel

 

Hey Hazel,

I had this problem with my shower and kitchen taps a while ago (combi boiler), I found reducing the water flow helped me short term, someone explained it to me as my old boiler not being able to heat up the water quick enough when too much was rushing through. It seemed to work and gave me more continuous hot water.

Happy showering!

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My parents paid for BG to install their latest Wocester Bosch combi which is somewhat excessive £4,300 as there are good tradesmen out there who charge considerably less for the same job.

 

Couldn't agree more BG operate good advertising and scare tacktic to oaps which I think is morally wrong

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I have an old Ideal Wlx boiler regular boiler that is over twenty years old. I am looking to replace it with either a combi or system boiler which are both pressurised.

 

I have had a number of quotes but could do with advice on whether my existing radiators mostly 30+ years old will cope with a pressurised system.

 

I have been advised to have a powerflush as the radiators have had minimal maintenance over the years but have been told both that there is little likelihood of the radiators failing or a very strong possibility. What do people think?

 

Secondly, I wonder what boiler to get. There are usually two of us here - sometimes four. The house is small- medium 3 bed dormer semi built in 1971. I have beent told that the WB 27CDi is very good combi, better than the WB 24si or the Ideal Logic+ but that they are all good boilers.

 

If I go for a system or regular boiler - both the WB and Logic 18kw have been recommended.

 

I would appreciate any advice.

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I have an old Ideal Wlx boiler regular boiler that is over twenty years old. I am looking to replace it with either a combi or system boiler which are both pressurised.

 

I have had a number of quotes but could do with advice on whether my existing radiators mostly 30+ years old will cope with a pressurised system.

 

I have been advised to have a powerflush as the radiators have had minimal maintenance over the years but have been told both that there is little likelihood of the radiators failing or a very strong possibility. What do people think?

 

Secondly, I wonder what boiler to get. There are usually two of us here - sometimes four. The house is small- medium 3 bed dormer semi built in 1971. I have beent told that the WB 27CDi is very good combi, better than the WB 24si or the Ideal Logic+ but that they are all good boilers.

 

If I go for a system or regular boiler - both the WB and Logic 18kw have been recommended.

 

I would appreciate any advice.

 

In properties of your size then I am a big fan of combi-boilers, all new boilers are 'A' rated and a combi saves heating a full cylinder of hot water as you are getting instant hot water on demand. I prefer the Ideal Logic+ 30kw with a 7yr warranty, Vaillants are excellent too as are Baxi Platinums. Not a fan of Worcesters myself, I consider them only average and you are really just paying for the name. Radiators can pop under a pressurised system (had three in my experience, most recently two weeks ago) but generally rare. The system would be flushed to bring it up to an acceptable level of cleanliness to validate the warranty.Happy to survey your property, discuss your options and offer a free written quote, cheers, Steve

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I have an old Ideal Wlx boiler regular boiler that is over twenty years old. I am looking to replace it with either a combi or system boiler which are both pressurised.

 

I have had a number of quotes but could do with advice on whether my existing radiators mostly 30+ years old will cope with a pressurised system.

 

I have been advised to have a powerflush as the radiators have had minimal maintenance over the years but have been told both that there is little likelihood of the radiators failing or a very strong possibility. What do people think?

 

Secondly, I wonder what boiler to get. There are usually two of us here - sometimes four. The house is small- medium 3 bed dormer semi built in 1971. I have beent told that the WB 27CDi is very good combi, better than the WB 24si or the Ideal Logic+ but that they are all good boilers.

 

If I go for a system or regular boiler - both the WB and Logic 18kw have been recommended.

 

I would appreciate any advice.

 

As steve has said WB are over price as you are only paying for the name, I also recommend Ideal logic+. Please call if you wish for a free written quote

Thank you

Scott

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I was hoping someone could give some advice about our problem.

 

2 weeks ago, our Valiant boiler started losing pressure, approximately 1 bar every day. I switched it off and isolated the return and flow using the valves underneath the boiler, but the pressure kept dropping at the same rate. Hence the assumption was boiler problem, not system leak.

 

We've got BG boiler cover, so gave them a call. They isolated the boiler the same way to double check - boiler still losing pressure. So they investigated further - bags placed over condensate and pressure relief pipe to catch water (nothing there). They found water inside a container in the boiler - this led to them replacing the heat exchanger. But pressure still dropping (same rate).

 

So, boiler completely disconnected and capped off (return and flow, mains supply and hot and cold feeds, but not gas supply). Pressure held perfectly.

 

Before reconnecting, the expansion vessel was noted to be quite flat, so this was pumped (but they stated this was unrelated as pressure was not rising with heating on).

 

Boiler now reconnected, but is still losing pressure.

 

So, BG say it's a system leak. Okay, but why is there pressure loss in the boiler when we use the isolation valves under the boiler? BG say those valves definitely hold water as they were used when disconnecting the boiler - however BG suggest that they 'can hold water, but perhaps not pressure'. That doesn't makes sense to me :)

 

Before we start ripping up flooring looking for a leak, can anything think of a reason that may have been overlooked? Is it possible for the isolation valves to 'not hold pressure' but happily 'hold water'? Is there 'something' different when using isolation valves compared to completely disconnecting and capping off return and flow pipes?

 

Any thoughts, however obscure, would be much appreciated!

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Hi, we are doing some work in our house and want to move the combi boiler from the kitchen to the garage. Firstly, would there be a problem having it in the garage as it does get cold in winter (would this affect the boiler) and is it a big job? As far as I can tell, it's the gas supply and water supply that would need moving? The gas metre is in the garage anyway so seems quite do-able!

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there are pros and cons to moving a combi. I personally dont like to resite them as have had probs with a few in the past. most installer will prob want a guarantee off you that if it goes pop or refuses to fire up then they are not at fault. You defo need to buy a new flue.

 

no probs with having a combi anywhere. If the garage gets cold then lag all the pipes and ask installer to fit a frost stat.

 

andy

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Thanks for the quick reply. I might get a new boiler anyway as this one is getting on a bit. That should, presumably, make things a little more simple?

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In fact, can anyone recommend a good, reliable economic boiler?

I've had vaillant in the past and they have been good.

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Mod Note

 

Threads merged yet again.

 

Please use the search facility before posting new threads

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I was hoping someone could give some advice about our problem.

 

2 weeks ago, our Valiant boiler started losing pressure, approximately 1 bar every day. I switched it off and isolated the return and flow using the valves underneath the boiler, but the pressure kept dropping at the same rate. Hence the assumption was boiler problem, not system leak.

 

We've got BG boiler cover, so gave them a call. They isolated the boiler the same way to double check - boiler still losing pressure. So they investigated further - bags placed over condensate and pressure relief pipe to catch water (nothing there). They found water inside a container in the boiler - this led to them replacing the heat exchanger. But pressure still dropping (same rate).

 

So, boiler completely disconnected and capped off (return and flow, mains supply and hot and cold feeds, but not gas supply). Pressure held perfectly.

 

Before reconnecting, the expansion vessel was noted to be quite flat, so this was pumped (but they stated this was unrelated as pressure was not rising with heating on).

 

Boiler now reconnected, but is still losing pressure.

 

So, BG say it's a system leak. Okay, but why is there pressure loss in the boiler when we use the isolation valves under the boiler? BG say those valves definitely hold water as they were used when disconnecting the boiler - however BG suggest that they 'can hold water, but perhaps not pressure'. That doesn't makes sense to me :)

 

Before we start ripping up flooring looking for a leak, can anything think of a reason that may have been overlooked? Is it possible for the isolation valves to 'not hold pressure' but happily 'hold water'? Is there 'something' different when using isolation valves compared to completely disconnecting and capping off return and flow pipes?

 

Any thoughts, however obscure, would be much appreciated![/

 

why o why have BG not sorted this. Vaillant boiler iso valves are pretty damm good. First off find out if leak is within boiler. So increase pressure up to 2 bar and turn off all iso valves apart from gas. Bag the prv and condensate and leave for min 12 hours (24 is better). Then has boiler lost pressure. If yes then leak in boiler, if no then elsewhere in pipes. Check for water in prv bag and condensate bag. Sometimes a condensate bag can be dry but you will find a little spillage in the boiler itself from dripping out the syphon trap. I think BG went the easy route of replacing your hot water heat exchanger. My feeling is that the leak is in main heat exchanger. Pretty rare for a stainless vaillant heat ex but can happen.

 

when you last had boiler isolated, you said it dropped pressure. are u sure boiler was dry inside

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