Micky ET   10 #1525 Posted April 4, 2010 Not leaving it on if it's not 100% safe. It'll only go out anyway. Nothing on Gas Valve I can see, other than "General Control" Brown knob.  Ignitor says C8197.  Cheers, Si  There £186 plus vat at heatparts in sheffield. their the gas valve to british gas apparantely can not get for 90 year old women !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
Scandi   10 #1526 Posted April 6, 2010 Hi, thank you so much for reply. Its a Saunier Duval combi boiler...if that helps? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
Micky ET Â Â 10 #1527 Posted April 6, 2010 Hi, thank you so much for reply. Its a Saunier Duval combi boiler...if that helps? Â If it the pressure is that high 4.4 bar as quoted the boiler is classed as unsafe You need to tell your landlord to fix it asap, but sauner duvals are not cheap to fix their parts are one of the most expensive on the market. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
Complete-Heat   10 #1528 Posted April 7, 2010 Can't believe my eyes..... a sunny-duval able to stand 4.4bar....  Usually the right hand side plastic hydroblock fractures and leaks before the prv "blows off".......then again a S/D will leak when it hears you get your tools out....  Scandi...if the pressure is 4.4bar then it means that a safety valve is not doing its job and the boiler is unsafe. Check the basics first like someone has not left the filling loop in the open position (silver braided pipe that you fill the boiler with water from). You could also drain some of the water out of the system using a rad key on one of the radiators.  Hopefully you have contacted your landlord and they've sent someone out to fix it (rip it out!!!).... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
Micky ET   10 #1529 Posted April 7, 2010 Can't believe my eyes..... a sunny-duval able to stand 4.4bar.... Usually the right hand side plastic hydroblock fractures and leaks before the prv "blows off".......then again a S/D will leak when it hears you get your tools out....  Scandi...if the pressure is 4.4bar then it means that a safety valve is not doing its job and the boiler is unsafe. Check the basics first like someone has not left the filling loop in the open position (silver braided pipe that you fill the boiler with water from). You could also drain some of the water out of the system using a rad key on one of the radiators.  Hopefully you have contacted your landlord and they've sent someone out to fix it (rip it out!!!)....  Yep est way to fix it would be to remove it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
skinz   10 #1530 Posted April 14, 2010 Greenstar 28i junior Condensing Combi.  Problem: When switching on, the boiler goes through a clicking sequence then the Blue light flashes constantly...no other flashing lights. There is a whirring sound as if the pump is working. The fan doesn't rotate at all. There was a recent condensing problem but that was rectified and run perfectly since. The boiler has very recently had a new fan and PCB. I'm just wondering if the problem could be a late result of the previous condensing problem. Anyone familiar with this unit? and if so are you in the "South Rd" area tomorrow?  I have to say compared with others the fault finding and diagnostics on WB is absolute dismal. The electrical schematics are very basic and electrical component values are non existent.  Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
corgigasman   10 #1531 Posted April 14, 2010 Need to go through a proper diagnostic sequence really...is it recognising a demand? Is there power to fan? Is APS proving? etc, etc. Having had a new fan and pcb (not cheap that lot) it sounds like someone has just thrown parts at the boiler without really getting to the root of the problem. I am booked solid for the next 4/5 weeks but one of the other guys may help..Mickey is often over that way, Mr Peacock is good at diagnostics but busier than me, and if you are really persuasive you might get Andy (CompleteHeat) to give you the value of his wisdom.....but I happen to know he has little time at the moment too. Hope this has helped a little Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
Complete-Heat   10 #1532 Posted April 15, 2010 Thanks Steve.. going to london in sept so sorting it all out.  OP, i know what you mean about the fault finding, its about looking at how fast or slow the blue light flashes on these models. I would disagree with the statement of dismal electrics as the WB is quite sophisticated and converts most of its output to dc voltage. This confuses some boiler "repairers" when nothing lights up on their volt sticks.......  I'm thinking youre not getting hot water or heating as you didnt say. The weak part of the junior greenstar is the pcb and ive replaced loads in the past. Usually its the sticking fan or the hall unit on the fan that overloads them. As well as fan a new fan loom should also be fitted. If not it can take the pcb out again.....so i'm thinkng maybe another pcb....  Easier to sort out standing in front of it though so it could be something else. Get the person who threw new fan and pcb at it back out.  Hopefully, mickey will read this as i know he's in S10 and S6 quite a lot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
teho1978 Â Â 10 #1533 Posted April 15, 2010 My radiators make noises when central heating is turned on (sounds like someone is banging it with a hammer) it is very annoying when the heating starts early morning! Can anyone advice how to get rid of the sound please? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
MartinsGas   10 #1534 Posted April 15, 2010 Could the sound be caused your radiators expanding or is the sound coming from your boiler? It may be pipework expanding. Pipes can stick where they cross joists. When they heat up they expand and a force builds up until suddenly the sticking point is overcome, and you get a clanging sound. The same with radiators where the brackets hold them to the wall. The application of a suitable lubricant can help. Put something slippery between the joists and the pipes. If the sound is from your boiler then it could be overheating suggesting a problem with the water flow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
Complete-Heat   10 #1535 Posted April 15, 2010 or could probably be a failing pump Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...
Micky ET   10 #1536 Posted April 15, 2010 My best advice with the greenstar is call worcester £190 fixed call out as many parts as required. If you've had that many problems I 'd also insure it, in my opinion you may have the friday afternoon boiler. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Share this content via...