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HI

I bought a house with new kitchen extension. There is a fault with my oven (cooling fan wont shut off), but it appears it is wired straight into the fusebox (no isolator switch) on the same fuse as all the other sockets in the extension, so I cant switch it off without turning  every other plug socket/ fridge/freezer etc off.  This cant be OK can it??

thanks

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The cooling fan should only come on when you switch the oven on surely in the first place. Most ovens have a dial with the different oven functions on and a dial that acts as a thermostat to heat the oven. There should also be an isolator switch on the wall (you would have thought) that says cooker on it. In the fuse box there is generally a separate fuse for a cooker or so l believe, I've never come across a modern fuse box without one, think it is the law now. I think my fuse is 32Amp. My best advice would get a Qualified Electrician to come and look at it, let a professional take charge.

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It sounds as though your oven fan control has failed at some point and some clown has wired the fan motor straight into the downstairs ring because they can’t be arsed to fault find properly.

 

I’m not entirely sure why anyone would do that because if you were going to bodge it you may as well just wire it into the dedicated cooker switch then at least the entire unit can be isolated with one switch.

 

As this was most likely done by the previous owner or the previous owner’s ‘mate who does a bit of electrics’, it may be worth having the kitchen extension looked over to see what other delights you may have inherited. 🔌💡🎛🧨🔥 😵

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42 minutes ago, Top Cats Hat said:

It sounds as though your oven fan control has failed at some point and some clown has wired the fan motor straight into the downstairs ring because they can’t be arsed to fault find properly.

 

I’m not entirely sure why anyone would do that because if you were going to bodge it you may as well just wire it into the dedicated cooker switch then at least the entire unit can be isolated with one switch.

 

As this was most likely done by the previous owner or the previous owner’s ‘mate who does a bit of electrics’, it may be worth having the kitchen extension looked over to see what other delights you may have inherited. 🔌💡🎛🧨🔥 😵

Sorry Top Cat my poor grammar- the oven (not the oven fan!) is wired directly into the fusebox- i tracked the cable down into the cellar fusebox,, running alongside another cable supplying 4 plug sockets for the other built in appliances in the same wall unit. Both the feeds seem to be controlled by the same switch on the fuse box (labelled 'kitchen extension')..... So, if flick the switch off to cut power to the oven, I also cut power to another oven, microwave, freezer, fridge and warming drawer.

 

Normally hard wired ovens etc seem to have a wall switch to isolate them from the mains.

 

I've long since realised the previous owner did everything on the cheap/bodge 😕

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20 minutes ago, lil-minx92 said:

Normally hard wired ovens etc seem to have a wall switch to isolate them from the mains.
 

Yes, usually on a circuit rated at 32/40 amp depending on size of oven.

 

Out of interest, does your fusebox have a 32amp breaker in it?

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I dug my cellar out with my mate years ago. We had it all fitted out with lighting, loads of plug sockets and moved a lot of our annoying kitchen appliances down there, i.e. washing machine, tumble drier and deep freezer. The cellar has it's own ring main and has a fuse box and breakers down there too. Definitely sounds like your DIYer was a cowboy. Have it all checked out.

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1 hour ago, Top Cats Hat said:

Yes, usually on a circuit rated at 32/40 amp depending on size of oven.

 

Out of interest, does your fusebox have a 32amp breaker in it?

errrrrr now youre getting complicated!

 

Reesh thanks I may well do, or try and find who if anyone signed off the electrics! 

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Sometimes the isolators are located in the back of cupboards or behind the plinths under the cabinets. Would recommend  you get a reputable, registered electrician to carry out an Electrical Installation Condition Report. This will give you a snapshot of the current state of your overall installation. It will cost around.£200 but will be money well spent. 

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