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Electric oven , hard wired or plug

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20 minutes ago, Bash Street said:

I had a look at the google reviews and people seem fairly happy with the oven, looks like you can plug it straight in and you're good to go. Whatever socket you use though make sure you only use the oven off of it and don't be tempted to use a double adaptor with other appliances as you could quite easily overload the socket.

The main gripe people have is that it only has one shelf. I can't understand why they didn't realise that before they bought it but there you go.

You could hardwire it but shouldnt. Put a wire were you were going to hardwire and put a plug on to wire. Put the plug in the cupboard at side of oven housing so if a fuse goes you dont have to take oven out to change fuse. Obvious put plug on the oven in same unit plug in 

 

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It is not a question of hard wire or plug but what you connect it to. 

 

Yes, 11 amps is within the capacity of a 13 amp ring main put if you plug it into your downstairs ring main then you reduce the capacity to 2 amps for everything else on that ring while the cooker is on. Either plug or hard wired will do, as long as it is on its own ring.

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2 hours ago, Top Cats Hat said:

It is not a question of hard wire or plug but what you connect it to. 

 

Yes, 11 amps is within the capacity of a 13 amp ring main put if you plug it into your downstairs ring main then you reduce the capacity to 2 amps for everything else on that ring while the cooker is on. Either plug or hard wired will do, as long as it is on its own ring.

No you don’t .....a ring main is 32amps ...plus the oven does not pull 10 amps constant ...

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9 hours ago, alarmingmark said:

.....a ring main is 32amps ...

Really?

 

Why then do they have 13 amp breakers?

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Posted (edited)

The thing to remember is that fuses in plugs and mcbs are there to protect the cable, not the appliance as such.  The cooker with the plug on. will have a cable rated at 13 amps, protected by a 13 amp fuse in the plug. If you cut off the plug and hard wire it to a circuit/cable that is  protected by an mcb or fuse rated at 15 or 30 amps then the cooker cable is no longer protected at 13 amps. If ,as suggested by someone above, you change the cooker wallplate to a standard 13 amp socket and plug the cooker into that then everything is protected correctly. I had this done at my flat last year.

Edited by tintin123
clarificiation

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10 hours ago, Top Cats Hat said:

Really?

 

Why then do they have 13 amp breakers?

They don't .....16 amp,....but that wouldnt be used on a Final ring circuit ......

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19 minutes ago, alarmingmark said:

They don't .....16 amp,....but that wouldnt be used on a Final ring circuit ......

 My mistake.

 

OK, I will ask again why does a 32 amp ring main have 16 amp breakers?

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44 minutes ago, Top Cats Hat said:

 My mistake.

 

OK, I will ask again why does a 32 amp ring main have 16 amp breakers?

It doesn’t ...it has a 32amp

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11 minutes ago, alarmingmark said:

It doesn’t ...it has a 32amp

Not in my house it doesn't, all mains rings are protected at 16 amps. The only 32 amp supplies are to the electric shower and to my garage for power tools.

 

I definitely wouldn't put an 2.4 kW cooker on a 16 amp downstairs ring with a 1.8 kW deep fat frier. Switch on a 3 kW electric kettle or a toaster and you could be somewhere between 25 and 30 amps.

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You probably have radials ...or installed by a cowboy 

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