How to fix dripping joint, in copper water pipe?

[rudds1 102]

do a proper, permanent repair. Bodge it, and be prepared to have more bother.

 

Well said

If it was my problem I'd trace pipe back as far as possible then like others have said use push fit fittings and if need be a bit of new pipe

[Waldo 96]

Well said

If it was my problem I'd trace pipe back as far as possible then like others have said use push fit fittings and if need be a bit of new pipe

 

I agree, that's way better than a bodge job. The issue is just one of access.

 

The T join is in the corner of the room; so, of the 3 pipes that run in to it, 2 go along the edge of the room, and 1 goes in to a (interior) wall. So, it's in the corner of the room, at floor level, where the T join is located.

 

I guess it's an idea to try and excavate material from the wall (bits of old newspaper and plaster from the looks of it), and see if the pipe can be cut at the side of the T join where it runs in to the wall.

[carosio 186]

Is it cold water or hot water pipe? Where does the far end of the T joint go?

[willman 10]

I'm all for causing less work than needed, but i would be sorely tempted to remove the paper in the cavity, track the pipes back from the junctions a little bit(where the tissue ends perhaps) and cut them out.

Replace with plastic pipe and push fits.

If you use a circular pipe cutter access will be easier,you can prebuild the t junctions and fit onto the pipes with the relevant parts in place.

[zaci 12]

Don't think replacing with push fit is an option, if as you say the pipework is over 30 years old then it's going to be imperial sized pipework. You might get lucky with a bodge job but it's not going to last you very long. It looks like it's on the heating pipework so to replace would require a drain down of the heating system.

[petemcewan 27]

Waldo,

 

Why not get a plumber to do the job ? It's like an iron law of the universe that the problem is inaccessible. My Combi Boiler kept on tripping the RCD. Of course the fault had to be on the PCB. Cost me £300 to have it replaced.

[Rhyno 10]

If you can drain it then a plumbers iron or a torch on it and reflow the solder with some more can be enough. Of course if access is an issue then you generally find that the problem is flammable stuff that doesnt like a blowtorch....

 

If space is really tight, a creme brûlée torch might be easier to use than a plumbers blowtorch.

 

It will still have an adverse effect on any flammable stuff though.

[Obelix 11]

If space is really tight, a creme brûlée torch might be easier to use than a plumbers blowtorch.

 

It will still have an adverse effect on any flammable stuff though.

 

If you can get it hot enough yes... I have successfully sheilded flammable stuff with decent thick tinplate before behind the joint to be heated but I was young and foolish and nearly burnt the flat down...

 

As others have said if you can cut it out and get the plastic click lock stuff in it's worth doing as that stuff is so much better and more durable.

[geared 319]

It looks like it's on the heating pipework so to replace would require a drain down of the heating system.

 

Call in a professional, let them worry about access issues.

 

Considering it's around 20 degree's out, it's no problem having a plumber drain and re-fill the heating system right now. It doesn't take them long at all, and I'd much rather have it done on a warm summers day then when it's below freezing in the winter!!

[blackydog 40]

Thanks for the tip MrRobot!

 

 

 

It looks like a soldered join, and it's probably at least 30 years old. There's also a problem with it being in a very tight corner, so access isn't the greatest.

 

What are you suggesting, cutting the pipe and fitting a new (comression fit?) T section?

 

Firstly if you bodge it you will regret it. Is it a heating pipe to a radiator? can you unscrew it from the radiator valve after draining the system properly. Also then pull the pipe out of any clips. This may give you enough flexibility in the pipe to make a repair. It doesn't matter whether you use a soldered joint or a compression but the solder joint will likely be smaller.

I find the yorkshire joints aren't as good as they used to be with the lead free solder used now, so I tend to run extra solder around the ends to ensure a good seal.

If you go for it ensure all the water is drained from the pipe or you will just spend all day making steam.

[Waldo 96]

Firstly if you bodge it you will regret it. Is it a heating pipe to a radiator?

 

Nope, the 2 pipes coming off the main pipes, go to a basin hot and cold taps.

 

Anyhow, felt I was a bit out of my depth, so we've got someone to come round and sort it properly. Thank god for people who actually know that they're doing!

 

Also, thanks to everyone on this thread for your suggestions.

[Magna 10]

Hello,

 

I have a leaking T join in a copper wipe, drips about once every 30-60 seconds. What are my options for fixing? Is there anything I can smear over it, or tape round it, that will stop a leak?

 

Ta.

 

Folks,

 

I have this same problem. The leak is around every minute and the joint of the lead pipe (cold water) is visible (in the cellar).

 

Im located near Graves park. Any tradesmen here can give me a quote or look at the job.

 

Thanks