Jump to content

Anyone a mechanic on here? Advice only (no jobs/quotes etc)

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, blackydog said:

Before. I was hoping to find them worn when i took them apart.

Pads don't tend to cause an ABS fault, if they have a wear sensor on them it will usually have it's own warning lamp on the dash, seperate to the ABS lamp. Does the warning lamp literally say "ABS" or does it look like a brake drum/shoes?

If it is the ABS lamp, you can try cleaning the surface of the ABS sensors, metallic particles can cause a false fault. Also check the toothed target rings, if rusty you can try wire brushing them but the most common problem with rings is that they fracture and come loose.

It could be a faulty sensor, but you'll need Smart Car specific software on a reader to find out for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it was the Rotor/Reluctor ring, on start up the ABS light would go out. It would only come on when the vehicle was driven. This is because the ABS ECU wouldn't like the signals it was getting from the Rotor/Reluctor ring then assume there was a fault and ping the light up. It would happen like this every time you set of. This is also assuming it is an analogue ABS system. A digital system has the pick up built into the wheel bearing, this is known as a "Hall effect" system. As geared has said it is more likely to be a sensor itself and there is four of them. Could also be a faulty wire/connector, and worst case scenario the ABS modulator itself. First things to check though would be fuses and earths.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Dardandec said:

If it was the Rotor/Reluctor ring, on start up the ABS light would go out. It would only come on when the vehicle was driven. This is because the ABS ECU wouldn't like the signals it was getting from the Rotor/Reluctor ring then assume there was a fault and ping the light up. It would happen like this every time you set of. This is also assuming it is an analogue ABS system. A digital system has the pick up built into the wheel bearing, this is known as a "Hall effect" system. As geared has said it is more likely to be a sensor itself and there is four of them. Could also be a faulty wire/connector, and worst case scenario the ABS modulator itself. First things to check though would be fuses and earths.

Thanks all for sharing your knowledge. I have repaired both front ABS sensor cables last year, when ABS light came on. Maybe I'll just change those two (£33 each) and see if it makes any difference. I'll also give everything a good clean whilst I'm at it. If that doesn't work I'm going to need proper diags.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone for attempting to help here, especially the 2 members who got their heads together to get a diagnostic reading for me 😉 (you know who you are)

Front passenger side ABS sensor it was, as diagnosed. Cost me £33 from Eurocarparts. Bit of a pig to change due to access. 

I haven't drove the car yet but I have started it and the lights went out almost immediately.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Puegeot 307 2006, firing but not starting

 

Hi,

The car was sorted last time, it was a broken immobiliser key(tx SF'ers), it then ran ok for a while, but today tried to start the car and it just won't start: if fires up, and that is it, the immobiliser key is fine, the battery seems ok, charging another one,

 

Edited by gamezone07

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will it push and bump start ok? 

 

If so its the starter. Even if it sounds like its turning over healthily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 15/06/2019 at 16:34, gamezone07 said:

 

Puegeot 307 2006, firing but not starting

 

Hi,

The car was sorted last time, it was a broken immobiliser key(tx SF'ers), it then ran ok for a while, but today tried to start the car and it just won't start: if fires up, and that is it, the immobiliser key is fine, the battery seems ok, charging another one,

 

Highly likely this is the coil pack, that's assuming it is cranking. Then start looking at fuel delivery ie pump and circuit opening relay etc. If it is a coil pack issue, I would strongly recommend you replace the spark plugs too. Worn spark plugs over work the coil packs due to the increased gap, seen loads of destroyed coil pack due to this.

 

This is also assuming it is a petrol.

 

Get it code read first though. :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone got an Hyundai i20 1.4 petrol mine ticks on tickover I'm convinced it's not normal really low millage so can't see there being a big issue just curious if it's just normal noise goes quiet when u set off its the first gen i20  2011 plate or if someone mechanically minded could listen to it id pay for your time

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Hans-solo said:

Has anyone got an Hyundai i20 1.4 petrol mine ticks on tickover I'm convinced it's not normal really low millage so can't see there being a big issue just curious if it's just normal noise goes quiet when u set off its the first gen i20  2011 plate or if someone mechanically minded could listen to it id pay for your time

Ticking at idle is usually the injectors, some cars are noisier than  others. If it is the injectors, this is normal. Another thing it could be is the tappets, not sure if they are hydraulic on the i20, they were on earlier models like the Getz i believe.

If they are hydraulic, a good oil and filter change usually sorts this after a good run.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Citroen C1 engine fault.

 

It's a Mk 1 at 57k miles. Other night I filled up at a garage in S5, I had let the fuel run a bit low and was about 10 miles into the reserve.

 

A mile later the engine began to misfire and hold back when accelerating, it would run even at light throttle but when depressed the revs took time to catch up with the throttle opening, worse on the hills.

 

Pulled into a car park and in neutral the engine could be revved freely once it caught up with the throttle opening, and it would tick over as normal.

 

Managed to nurse it to my destination and parked up, ticking over ok. Next day the engine eventually started but ran lumpily so I switched off. Smell of petrol from exhaust. The management light did not show at any time.

The AA man said no faults were showing on his diagnostics, crank sensor read ok, and was inconclusive about the fault. Possible coil pack (3)

 

The symptoms (on older cars) were classic fuel starvation/blocked fuel filter. Any suggestions please?

Edited by carosio
model type.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, carosio said:

 

The symptoms (on older cars) were classic fuel starvation/blocked fuel filter. Any suggestions please?

 

Nope, even on a older car that was not fuel starvation.

If the exhaust stinks of fuel it's simply not burning it, indicating an ignition problem not fuel delivery.

 

Change the spark plugs, coil pack(s) and ignition leads (if it has them)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.