Anyone a mechanic on here? Advice only (no jobs/quotes etc)

[Top Cats Hat 10]

As others have said, take it to a tyre place and have the valve removed and replaced.

 

The force needed to break the corrosion between the valve and the cap is much greater than that needed to tear the valve body or even rotate the valve in the rim so even if you put the longest pair of pliers in the world on the cap and get Geoff Capes to turn it, the best you can ever hope for is to just turn the whole valve body round and round in the rim.

[Crosser 10]

OK how about this for a mystery....

 

Got a second hand car from a MAIN DEALER (supposedly serviced and MOT'd before sale)

 

Now, remember this is an automatic, so I expected more wear on brakepads, however after about 9 months (and approx 3000 miles) noticed a rumbling on front end when braking.

 

Yet the fluid reservoir was almost full!

 

when checked the brake pads were down to the metal.

 

This would lead me to believe that the brake pads were not replaced on the service as they should have been.

 

Or is there a scenario I have not considered?

Edited September 11, 2018 by Crosser

[Top Cats Hat 10]

Not necessarily.

 

There is now no minimum pad material limit for the MOT. As long as there is the required brake effort produced for a car of that weight and power, it will pass the brake test.

 

So a service would not necessarily require the pads to be replaced but would usually require that all fluids including brake fluids are up to the correct level.

 

Your post suggests that you only started to have braking problems after nine months so I suspect that your pads were worn but working OK when you bought the car and they have now worn down to the point where they need replacing.

[alchresearch 214]

however after about 9 months (and approx 3000 miles) noticed a rumbling on front end when braking.

 

Rumbling on braking could be the ABS kicking in due to a sensor issue. Not in your case though.

 

Hate to say it but a service these days just consists of an oil change and a cursory inspection of the rest of the car.

[geared 318]

There is now no minimum pad material limit for the MOT. As long as there is the required brake effort produced for a car of that weight and power, it will pass the brake test.

 

Yes there is, in fact mine failed on that just the other day.

 

Rear Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick

 

Had em off last night and I'm sure there's much more meat on them than that :suspect:

[Top Cats Hat 10]

Yes there is, in fact mine failed on that just the other day.

 

My apologies, that must have changed.

 

At 1.5mm on my front pads, the rivets would be rubbing on the discs!

[Dardandec 32]

The 1.5mm limit is only a guide and is very difficult to measure, If friction material can still be seen it should be a pass and advise.

 

Not necessarily.

 

There is now no minimum pad material limit for the MOT.

 

Brake pads have always been a testable item.

[Top Cats Hat 10]

 

The 1.5mm limit is only a guide and is very difficult to measure, If friction material can still be seen it should be a pass and advise.

 

My tester says that it is a visual inspection only and anything less than 3mm he will stick it on as an advisory unless there are obvious chunks of pad material flaked off in which case he will fail even if the brake test is passed.

[Cookie1972 10]

Got a 2004 panda heater is cold and temperature gauge sometimes goes to 0 could this be thermostat drives perfect no overheating most of time gauge is normal

[zigzag 10]

Got a 2004 panda heater is cold and temperature gauge sometimes goes to 0 could this be thermostat drives perfect no overheating most of time gauge is normal[/QUOT

 

 

Have you checked the coolant level?

[Cookie1972 10]

Got a 2004 panda heater is cold and temperature gauge sometimes goes to 0 could this be thermostat drives perfect no overheating most of time gauge is normal[/QUOT

 

 

Have you checked the coolant level?

 

First thing I checked

[Marx 10]

My wife has just bought a Fiat 500, purely on how it looked and after a ten-minute test drive.

 

It is really lumpy on idle and cuts out when it comes to a stop (but not if the handbrake is on - sometimes). It restarts when the clutch is depressed, but not every time. Is it supposed to do this and can it be turned off, if so?

 

I have also read here that they are useless at going up hills.