Anyone a mechanic on here? Advice only (no jobs/quotes etc)

[therascal 10]

Thanks wallace, done that already, it struggles to turn over ( not through lack of battery) the power is there then it fires up.... Then splutter dies within 5-6 seconds!

 

If the battery is fully charged and it struggles to turn over, check the earth strap between engine and bodywork it may have corroded and broken if the cars been stood all that time.

[cra1g 10]

:help:

Can anyone give me a bit of advice I have a Kia Sorento 55 Plate and the other week the clutch peddles went to the floor and would not spring back up, so I knew there was something wrong with the clutch. Cut a long story short I took it to a garage that I know, and they said it looked like the Slave cylinder and swapped it out. 2 weeks later the same thing happened I went back to the garage and they reluctantly replaced the slave cylinder which went again within 2 days...

 

What I want to know is how much would it cost me for a new clutch Slave and Master cylinder even a second hand one to be fitted and do you know of anyone that could do this ASAP. If you can or you know of someone that can do this job, please contact me through the forums and give me a rough price on how much it will be...

 

Thanks for reading

 

Craig

[Top Cats Hat 10]

Worn/sticking clutch release bearing?

[Obelix 11]

Or broken or cracked clutch plate spring. Next time it's off always swap everything, frinction plate, pressure plate, release fork and spring - everything. False economy in labour not to.

[Top Cats Hat 10]

Is the system losing fluid? If it is then there is a leak in the system somewhere. If it isn't and the pedal still goes to the floor, then the fluid is probably leaking back past a seal somewhere.

 

Most modern clutches are disengaged by hydraulic pressure (master/slaver cylinder) and engaged by mechanical means (usually a spring).

 

If the hydraulic system has been replaced and the problem persists then as Obelix says, the actual clutch mechanism itself needs looking at.

[Mulan 10]

Hi I’m looking for some advice on what could possibly be wrong with my car? It’s a 1.2 corsa 2013 petrol engine, goes into limp mode intermittently and when this happens eml (car with spanner) comes on, turns off after engine restart most times and runs a little better, some times it continues and I have to park it up for a few days. I’m having to rev and change gear between 3-4K revs most times to avoid limp mode, engine feels like it’s draggin/heavy and more recent car is jerking on acceleration and a popping noise when accelerating. A diagnostic showed throttle pedal signal not plausible or something similar? Advice so far from mechanics that it could be MAF sensor, throttle body, coil pack. Any advice please? I don’t want to start paying out to replace parts to find that it isn’t a fix. TIA

[nuthead 10]

my 1.2 corsa (2014 petrol) did exactly this a few months ago.

 

I took off the coil pack to find one of the rubber seals had perished and the spark plug was firing onto the engine wall so that's definitely worth checking (the error i was getting from a diagnostic check was a misfiring cylinder though). It was something like £15 for a pack of 4 rubber bits on ebay, or £100+ for the coil pack if that's gone

[alchresearch 210]

If the engine management light is coming on then it should be logging a fault code.

 

Get it diagnosed with decent equipment before throwing parts at the problem.

[Athmiester 10]

Hi I’m looking for some advice on what could possibly be wrong with my car? It’s a 1.2 corsa 2013 petrol engine, goes into limp mode intermittently and when this happens eml (car with spanner) comes on, turns off after engine restart most times and runs a little better, some times it continues and I have to park it up for a few days. I’m having to rev and change gear between 3-4K revs most times to avoid limp mode, engine feels like it’s draggin/heavy and more recent car is jerking on acceleration and a popping noise when accelerating. A diagnostic showed throttle pedal signal not plausible or something similar? Advice so far from mechanics that it could be MAF sensor, throttle body, coil pack. Any advice please? I don’t want to start paying out to replace parts to find that it isn’t a fix. TIA

Sounds like a sensor problem to me, do you use supermarket petrol ?

[Mulan 10]

Thanks for the responses, I’ve had it to another garage today they’ve ran another diagnostic and the fault logged was error code p2138 accelerator pedal position sensor 1/2 signal improbable, slightly different to the generic code I got last time which only showed when the light was on but I guess it’s different equipment, they have replaced the pedal and wiring and I’ll be collecting tomorrow. Hopefully it’s fixed. I had two days of the car being pretty much undriveable then took it to the garage this morning and it drove perfect:rolleyes:

[louca001 10]

Hi everyone and thanks in advance for any replies

 

After a coil spring replacement (and wheel alignment) would a vehicle need further wheel alignments over the next year or two?

 

Just curious

 

Will

[Obelix 11]

IF it was just a coil spring (presumably you did do both sides at the same time yes) then it shouldnt do. Sometimes if new bushings are fitted then they can bed in a move a bit but even thats rare TBH