M14x1.5 Aluminium nut ?

[Janus 28]

Another Sheffield place to try is UK fixings on Shepcote Lane Tel: 2438080

Where ever you go, take the piece with you to be sure of thread fitting.

[Chrissoftley 10]

http://www.pro-bolt.com/aluminium.html

[megalithic 10]

http://www.pro-bolt.com/aluminium.html

 

Cheers for that, but i can't fund the size i need on there.

[peak4 281]

I'd personally still consider the Helicoil route myself for a number of reasons, however;

Off at a slight tangent, I'm assuming that you are correct in your M14x1.5mm measurements. Is this an oil pressure sender, or an oil pressure warning light. If the latter and it's an older car, with just a bulb and no electronic trickery, then you may be able to replace it with a different sender made with a different thread diameter and pitch.

Now a stripped 14mm thread will leave a hole nominally 14mm diameter i.e. 0.55"

The tapping drill for 5/8 BSF is, 35/64th or to the nearest metric size 14mm, See Here

 

I'd be looking for a sender with a 5/8" BSF thread, but I doubt I'd find one as most are BSP, NPTF or similar.

 

However, It would be easy enough to turn up an adaptor with a 5/8" BSF thread on the male boss, with a tapped hole to suit, either your existing sender or a replacement with a smaller diameter.

 

The trick with keeping the swarf out of the engine, is to fill the flutes in the tap with grease and then to withdraw it at regular intervals.

 

On the other hand, if there is enough metal left surrounding the stripped hole a 3/8 NPTF tapping drill would be 37⁄64 in or 14.684 mm.

 

I's sure you could look up other threads and cone up with a similar solution.

 

Must go now, Tea's ready

[megalithic 10]

I'd personally still consider the Helicoil route myself for a number of reasons, however;

(1) Off at a slight tangent, I'm assuming that you are correct in your M14x1.5mm measurements. (2) Is this an oil pressure sender, or an oil pressure warning light. If the latter and it's an older car, with just a bulb and no electronic trickery, (3) then you may be able to replace it with a different sender made with a different thread diameter and pitch.

Now a stripped 14mm thread will leave a hole nominally 14mm diameter i.e. 0.55"

The tapping drill for 5/8 BSF is, 35/64th or to the nearest metric size 14mm, See Here

 

I'd be looking for a sender with a 5/8" BSF thread, but I doubt I'd find one as most are BSP, NPTF or similar.

 

However, It would be easy enough to turn up an adaptor with a 5/8" BSF thread on the male boss, with a tapped hole to suit, either your existing sender or a replacement with a smaller diameter.

 

The trick with keeping the swarf out of the engine, is to fill the flutes in the tap with grease and then to withdraw it at regular intervals.

 

On the other hand, if there is enough metal left surrounding the stripped hole a 3/8 NPTF tapping drill would be 37⁄64 in or 14.684 mm.

 

I's sure you could look up other threads and cone up with a similar solution.

 

Must go now, Tea's ready

 

 

(1) I got the info from here. Mine is the same as the one in pic 2, though located differently.

 

(2) To be honest i don't know !

 

(3) There's not a lot of room to play with really, ie the internal thread is drilled into a part of the block that sticks out and isn't very wide, so i'm not sure if widening it to take an insert would work.

 

I'm not adverse to using an insert, but there's a few things that may make it difficult.

 

Thanks for the reply.

[peak4 281]

Is it completely stripped or just loose?

If the latter, how about a boss with the same thread, but slightly greater diameter glued in with loctite high strength retainer. Used to be Lictite 631, I'm not sure what they call it these days.

The just screw your sender into the adaptor.

 

edit, looking at your link, I suspect that it's not actually part of the block, rather being on the the oil pump cover.

If that's true, it might be a whole lot easier to change said cover for one from a breakers.

Edited July 27, 2014 by peak4

[megalithic 10]

Is it completely stripped or just loose?

If the latter, how about a boss with the same thread, but slightly greater diameter glues in with loctite high strength retainer. Used to be Lictite 631, I'm not sure what they call it these days.

The just screw your sender into the adaptor

 

It screws all the way in, but wont bite up. Cleaning out the hole i removed several pieces of thread.

 

Currently there's a new switch in there held by JB weld, and it is holding, going on the two short runs i've trusted it to do. But ultimately it'll fail, as i guess any kind of soft "weld" will, so i want a 100% permanent fix.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by a boss btw ?

[peak4 281]

It screws all the way in, but wont bite up. Cleaning out the hole i removed several pieces of thread.

 

Currently there's a new switch in there held by JB weld, and it is holding, going on the two short runs i've trusted it to do. But ultimately it'll fail, as i guess any kind of soft "weld" will, so i want a 100% permanent fix.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by a boss btw ?

 

All I meant was a round threaded bit sticking out of another bit of metal.

i.e. a 14x1.5mm bolt, but made a tad oversize, say 14.1mm, with a deeper head than normal.

The head is then drilled out and tapped to take your sender unit, or a compatible one, but with a smaller thread, say 1/8" NPTF.

 

I still wonder if it would be easier and better to just change the oil pump cover. Good luck

[megalithic 10]

All I meant was a round threaded bit sticking out of another bit of metal.

i.e. a 14x1.5mm bolt, but made a tad oversize, say 14.1mm, with a deeper head than normal.

The head is then drilled out and tapped to take your sender unit, or a compatible one, but with a smaller thread, say 1/8" NPTF.

 

I still wonder if it would be easier and better to just change the oil pump cover. Good luck

 

The switch screws into the block itself, so it would mean replacing most of the engine.

 

Called at Shaws earlier btw. I'm told the only place that may have what i require is the place on Shepcote Lane. They also said it would be quite expensive. Maybe they have a minimum spend policy ?

[Chrissoftley 10]

why not get a piece of aluminium and drill and tap it M14x1.5 pitch

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-X-1-5-Tap-Welding-tooling-Workshop-Engineering-Garage-P-/131251979391?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e8f3a447f

 

I can get you a piece about 40mmx120mmx6mm thick if you want it.

Edited July 28, 2014 by Chrissoftley

[megalithic 10]

Problem is i have no engineering knowledge, and more importantly no appropriate tools. I don't even own a drill !

[yellowperil 10]

An aluminium wheel nut for alloy wheels was the closest i found at m14x1.5.

Thats the best i found.

 

Some lock nuts for angle grinders are also m14 but i think m14x2.

The ones for flexi discs are usually aluminium.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited July 28, 2014 by yellowperil