Damp advice needed

[spider1 11]

If the flashings all prove to be ok, then a common issue (especially on attic chimney breasts) is hygroscopic salts contamination.The salts suck the moisture out of the room and manifest as a damp patch. No amount of paint, oil based or otherwise gets rid of it completely, it always re-appears.

 

They are very stubborn and I have found that the best solution is to re-board over a vapour barrier and skim.

 

 

 

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This is hiding it not curing it .

 

---------- Post added 15-11-2013 at 16:32 ----------

 

I've had similar issues when I had a house at crookes. That was the flashing. Cured by getting a proper roofer to remake the apron with lead solder etc before refitting.

 

If you've a velux window close by could you take some external photos / video? Camera on a tripod / pole sort of thing.

 

When you had it replastered was it taken back to brick, or just a reskim? Once the problem is cured you might need to have this replastered once its thoroughly dry.

 

Last resort and if you don't need it, could the chimney stack be removed?

 

Enjoy the joy of old houses The benefits they bring are worth it.

 

Same as you . Get the right men on the job not chancers. /An old roofer /slater would sort it .

[handypandy 14]

This is hiding it not curing it .

 

 

This is true.

 

If it is a salts issue and not a leak, short of removing all the carbon deposits from within the chimney and all the bricks where the salts have permeated through, what advice would you give?

 

 

 

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[Marx 10]

I had a similar problem when it rained and the wind was blowing a certain way. Water was running down one of the wooden lats from higher up in the roof space and just happened to drop when its route was interrupted, beyond the attic wall and in to the roof space. It could have been coming from anywhere. I had a couple of people out but neither fixed it. I ended-up putting a new roof on.

[spider1 11]

This is true.es

 

If it is a salts issue and not a leak, short of removing all the carbon deposits from within the chimney and all the bricks where the salts have permeated through, what advice would you give?

 

 

 

[COLOits R=White].[/color]

 

Salts normally come out were its wet or very damp ./ Its a fault with flashing thats causing problem .If it is a tile roof strip off tiles round stack put a soaker under slates re slate / re lead er up,, Check ridge tiles and lead valleys in case its getting in higher up and running down a spar from high up.

Edited November 15, 2013 by spider1

[handypandy 14]

Salts normally come out were its wet or very damp ./ Its a fault with flashing thats causing problem .If it is a tile roof strip off tiles round stack put a soaker under slates re slate / re lead er up,, Check ridge tiles and lead valleys in case its getting in higher up and running down a spar from high up.

 

In other words, if its not a roof issue, you have nothing to add.

 

 

 

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[spider1 11]

In other words, if its not a roof issue, you have nothing to add.

 

 

 

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I will put you straight / Salt will not show unless wall is wet./ If you put a vapour barrier on . Lat it./ Plaster board and skim it will look okay for 12 months. / after 12 mnths if you pull it off wall under neath will be wet through and smell. . water is getting in some were so you to have stop it no doubt about that. Salt will not oxidise out of bricks that are prob 60 yrs old and dry. Alternative would be to pull a plaster board off ceiling and have a good luck round.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

b

Edited November 16, 2013 by spider1

[handypandy 14]

I will put you straight / Salt will not show unless wall is wet./ If you put a vapour barrier on . Lat it./ Plaster board and skim it will look okay for 12 months. / after 12 mnths if you pull it off wall under neath will be wet through and smell. . water is getting in some were so you to stop it no doubt about that. Salt will not oxidise out of bricks that are prob 60 yrs old and dry.

 

No need to put me straight, I agree with everything you've said. However you are not offering advice on how to resolve the salts issue once the roof issue has been sorted which is basically what the OP is asking.

 

Once there has been a leak and the salts have permeated the plaster, even after the leak issue has been resolved, there is no going back, the plaster becomes hygroscopic and the salts can manifest in just high relative humidity.

 

 

 

 

 

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[StuartB 10]

I carry out oddjobs for people, and in the past have carried out extensive building works

From the second photos your problem looks like damp penetration as the emulsion is bubbling as it is being pushed off from behind

I assume your chimney is attached to next door and whilst your roofer has said your chimney is ok, next doors may have a fault with the apron flashing , pointing or flaunching

A nice photo externally would help, but is is difficult to see the right side of the chimney

You should talk to your neighbour with a view to getting a good roofer to have a close look at both parts

After the cause is fixed, you should have the affected plaster chopped off to the brickwork and renewed as it will have hygroscopic salts in

[spider1 11]

I carry out oddjobs for people, and in the past have carried out extensive building works

From the second photos your problem looks like damp penetration as the emulsion is bubbling as it is being pushed off from behind

I assume your chimney is attached to next door and whilst your roofer has said your chimney is ok, next doors may have a fault with the apron flashing , pointing or flaunching

A nice photo externally would help, but is is difficult to see the right side of the chimney

You should talk to your neighbour with a view to getting a good roofer to have a close look at both parts

After the cause is fixed, you should have the affected plaster chopped off to the brickwork and renewed as it will have hygroscopic salts in

YES exactly and use the special backing render before skim not carlite. RENOVATING BACKING grey in colour

Edited November 16, 2013 by spider1