Boiler/Heating Megathread - Advice & Recommendations, No Jobs/Quotes/Advertising

[corgigasman 10]

Tonight it's going to drop to -5 so they say - is it better to leave the heating on low all night to prevent freezing combi, set it to come on at intervals, or risk it till the morning to avoid pipe dripping and freezing???

 

Thanks Duckegg

 

Modern boilers have in-built frost stats but they only measure the temperature in the boiler location, so if boiler is in a garage/out-building then this will provide some protection. For boilers sited inside then consideration to 'vulnerable pipework' (under floors/cellars/roof space etc etc) should be taken. Frost stats located next to vulnerable pipes is one solution, dosing system with inhibitor containing anti-freeze will also help, ensure all pipework is well insulated. Leaving heating on low setting and continuous all night should prevent freezing risk too. Hope this helps, cheers, Steve

[Duckegg 10]

Modern boilers have in-built frost stats but they only measure the temperature in the boiler location, so if boiler is in a garage/out-building then this will provide some protection. For boilers sited inside then consideration to 'vulnerable pipework' (under floors/cellars/roof space etc etc) should be taken. Frost stats located next to vulnerable pipes is one solution, dosing system with inhibitor containing anti-freeze will also help, ensure all pipework is well insulated. Leaving heating on low setting and continuous all night should prevent freezing risk too. Hope this helps, cheers, Steve

 

Will leave on a low setting as we haven't got the antifreeze/frost stats option!

 

Many thanks for advice Duckegg

[FORE 12]

After a system is drained (inc. during an install) then slugs of air may be trapped and therefore some bleeding required as the air finds its way to radiators, however problem should not persist. Combi/sealed systems should only require bleeding once or twice a year....open-vent systems CAN draw air into the system and create the need to continually bleed radiators. Suggest a thorough check of ALL exposed pipework (particularly rad valves/any unions/magnetic filter) to locate any possible leak, in the first instance. Hope this helps, Steve

 

Thank you for that, Steve! I will monitor the situation.

 

It IS a combi, but what I can't get my head round is that air can be drawn in at unions etc without leaking water, which after all is at 1-2 bar.

 

It was a boiler swap only, from ancient Y-plan system, and all changed water pipework is beneath the new boiler. I also witnessed addition of corrosion inhibitor.

[corgigasman 10]

Thank you for that, Steve! I will monitor the situation.

 

It IS a combi, but what I can't get my head round is that air can be drawn in at unions etc without leaking water, which after all is at 1-2 bar.

 

It was a boiler swap only, from ancient Y-plan system, and all changed water pipework is beneath the new boiler. I also witnessed addition of corrosion inhibitor.

 

That is correct, if any nut/union is loose (letting air in) then water WOULD be leaking out. If the PRV is not passing (little stab of copper pipe that sticks out of wall below boilere) then you have a leak. BTW, converting 'Y-plan' to combi means extensive work in the old airing cupboard as well as around the boiler site . Combi's/sealed systems work at higher pressure than conventional open-vent systems (as yours was previously) and therefore 'test' any suspect joints.....very likely a leak below ground floor level if no leak evident above. Could try popping up any accessible boards on ground floor level and having a look or possibly dose system with leak sealer

[FORE 12]

Hi, thanks again 'Corgisman'.

 

I don't think there are leaks under the ground floor, I was there a few weeks ago, after the boiler swap, crawling trying to insulate between joists under the lounge boards - never again! At least all exposed under floor pipework is insulated!

 

The new boiler is again in the airing cupboard. The most extensive work was gas supply swap to 22mm. DHW pipework was very close to reroute as well as CH pipework.

 

No sign of leaks, as I say I'll monitor. I don't think there would be water leaks also as I haven't had to repressurise thro' the loop yet, despite all the air bled from ALL rads.

 

Thanks for your advice!

[Litotes 63]

Anyone on here got experiance with Fontecal boilers?

 

I need mine looking at...

 

Occasional venting through the prv, running high pressure.

 

It may have been a slight leak in the topup - this has now been tightened down...

Or it may be the ev (ouch)...

 

Any ideas or suggestions or volunteers (not volunteers really...)?

[IanBell 10]

What is the cheapest gas safety certificate?

 

---------- Post added 17-01-2013 at 10:18 ----------

 

Also can anyone help me with boiler repairs on the cheap?? I have only 2 properties and my tenants keep complaining.. I need a bit of help please email me.

[leelister6 10]

What is the cheapest gas safety certificate?

 

---------- Post added 17-01-2013 at 10:18 ----------

 

Also can anyone help me with boiler repairs on the cheap?? I have only 2 properties and my tenants keep complaining.. I need a bit of help please email me.

 

 

Gas safety certs are generally around the £45-50 mark depending on the number of appliances.

 

As for doing repairs "on the cheap", Most of the engineers on here will do good work at a reasonable price and will guarantee their workmanship. If you want cheap, you're likely to get a cowboy with no comeback when things go wrong again.

[IanBell 10]

No thank you to cowboys!! Do you know anyone who's good value for money?

 

---------- Post added 17-01-2013 at 15:34 ----------

 

and registered so I don't get banged up?

[sammy13 10]

No thank you to cowboys!! Do you know anyone who's good value for money?

 

---------- Post added 17-01-2013 at 15:34 ----------

 

and registered so I don't get banged up?

 

Best repair engineer on here is Andy from complete heating services.

[JBradleybz 10]

No thank you to cowboys!! Do you know anyone who's good value for money?

 

---------- Post added 17-01-2013 at 15:34 ----------

 

and registered so I don't get banged up?

 

 

Hi wed be able to do the work you require. Were fully qualified, registered and insured cheers Jon at JB Heating Services

[Canx 10]

Question for the central heating engineers among you - I have a Baxi Solo 3 PFL central heating boiler and the pump seems to be rather noisy (to me - OH doesn't notice it, but he's half deaf :) and it also seems to keep running after the central heating's (automatically) switched off on the timer clock - is this normal? Does it need any attention/service? And, most importantly, is it costing me any money?! Thank you for your help.