Damp proofing & removal advice/DPC/recommendations MEGATHREAD

[MrSmith 10]

no its not in use, its blocked off in the bedroom, and i think it may be capped off on the top

 

First thing to do is check it’s capped off at the top. If water can get in and it’s blocked off at the bottom with no ventilation it will be damp. It’s usually recommend that a capped off chimney is vented.

[handypandy 14]

I have an old house that has damp in an upstairs chimney breast, i believe it is condensation because when a window is opened the damp patch reduces in size, i was once told that it was salt in the brickwork that draws any moisture in the room to the wall....the room has an air vent.

what is the best remedy to this problem, i was thinking one option would be to use a membrane....

 

It is more than likely the salt problem, its quite common. Hygroscopic salts, which in the case of a chimney are caused by its history of burning carbon fuels, are present in the bricks. The salts act like a sponge, drawing moisture from the room. The only sure fire way I have found is, as you say, a membrane, fix battens to the wall, plaster-board over and skim.

[banjodeano 31]

It is more than likely the salt problem, its quite common. Hygroscopic salts, which in the case of a chimney are caused by its history of burning carbon fuels, are present in the bricks. The salts act like a sponge, drawing moisture from the room. The only sure fire way I have found is, as you say, a membrane, fix battens to the wall, plaster-board over and skim.

 

Yeah, thanks for that Hanypandy, thats what i was thinking...when the window is opened to let fresh air in and moisture out, it clears up considerably...

[Mkuzmicz 10]

I used it in my house electro-physical devoice and the damp is gone, this is better like the standard method becouse it dries 100% of the building and not, as the other methods just the injected area.

 

This device works on internal and external walls within 12 meters from the transmitter :-).

 

Please look here where you can find more info

http://www.tagema.co.uk/how_it_works.htm

[spider1 11]

I used it in my house electro-physical devoice and the damp is gone, this is better like the standard method becouse it dries 100% of the building and not, as the other methods just the injected area.

 

This device works on internal and external walls within 12 meters from the transmitter :-).

 

Please look here where you can find more info

http://www.tagema.co.uk/how_it_works.htm

 

Cure the cause and you cure the problem Dont like the look of this one .Like to know what building surveyors think about it . Is it recognised as a cure by mortgage lenders. What happens if the machine breaks down and you dont realise do all the walls get damp again .Be to late then if all walls are plastered. An accident waiting to happen.

Edited July 27, 2012 by spider1

[Gazza58 10]

Tanking is usually only used were the problem is underground,i.e a celler.

[handypandy 14]

These 'electro-osmosis' methods have been around for donkeys years and have rarely proved very effective, or at least not consistent. The old passive types were a dead loss because the anodes and connections corroded away. The active type has a low voltage power source and has had some very limited success. Lets just say that there are infinitely better methods available.

 

Horses for courses. Its not the cheapest method, but the best method by far is the Sovereign K11 method. It stops everything. You can see a demo

.

[handypandy 14]

Tanking is usually only used were the problem is underground,i.e a celler.

 

Not necessarily true, although I do accept that you said 'usually'. There are many instances where tanking methods may be used.

[Mkuzmicz 10]

Which method cure the cause and cure the problem?

-DPS injection? Today you can inject one wall and after a while the same problem will shows up on another wall. Also if you injected the wall you inject first brick up to the floor level,so this brick is seal to stop the damp but under this brick you still have a damp, modls ect.

-tanking is good but this method cost a lot of money and can be used in the basement, and still this is waterproof barriers and walls stay wet!

 

For the cost of tanking room size 4mx5m i will get the whole house dry, all the walls interial and external.

[spider1 11]

I have just bought a house which has rising and penetrating damp. I have had a survey done and the surveyor had quoted to treat the damp with a taking method. I understand what this is and was wondering if it had any advantages over the injection method and which damp roofing technique would generally be most cost effective? Also what advantages do each method have?

 

Thank you in advance!

Becky

 

Off the subject becky but did you know house had all these damp problems when you bought it. Cure to me is if ground outside is higher than d.p.c. lower it or dig out and put a land drain with shingle on top , Knock plaster of on inside walls about a metre high then silicone inject bwk and re-plaster with ren-ovateing plaster IF a cellar is involved do as i said at start . Handy pandy seems to know what the game is .Ask him to have a look at it for you if he;s not busy . Alll the best you have to do it right you only get one chance

Edited July 27, 2012 by spider1

[Mkuzmicz 10]

Spider- Good job is when, the walls are dry, not when you build the barrier and keep damp inside the wall.

 

DPS injection is good method, but when i met with the survey at my house he suggest me to do injection and after this use sika render(not sure about the name).

 

I've asked him why the waterproof render have to be applied on the place which dried after injection? He said, that it is use for a safety, because when in some places damp will start showing again, it will gonna stay inside the walls:-) and this will not effect the wall.

 

When i installed this electro osmosis system i have whole house completely dry at a price of 50% cheaper then if I would use injections. After drying i had to just make good walls and i did not use any water proof staff.

 

 

Also this staff looking very good too, but you must lay the cable.

http://www.timberwise.co.uk/timberwise-for-home/home-property-services/damp-control/damp-proofing/timberwise-electro-osmotic-system

[spider1 11]

Spider- Good job is when, the walls are dry, not when you build the barrier and keep damp inside the wall.

 

DPS injection is good method, but when i met with the survey at my house he suggest me to do injection and after this use sika render(not sure about the name).

 

I've asked him why the waterproof render have to be applied on the place which dried after injection? He said, that it is use for a safety, because when in some places damp will start showing again, it will gonna stay inside the walls:-) and this will not effect the wall.

 

When i installed this electro osmosis system i have whole house completely dry at a price of 50% cheaper then if I would use injections. After drying i had to just make good walls and i did not use any water proof staff.

 

 

Also this staff looking very good too, but you must lay the cable.

http://www.timberwise.co.uk/timberwise-for-home/home-property-services/damp-control/damp-proofing/timberwise-electro-osmotic-system

 

What kind off guarantee did you get with this systymn Is it approved by building socitys and mortgage lenders. Is there any upkeep to this systymn servicing electric bills etc. Will you reply to this please or it will seem like you are trying to convince yourself and not others. If some thing sounds to good to be true it normally is. they would put all big fims like sika out of buisness . Seems like you have been a fall guy my friend. Also if you try to sell the propety and people see tansmiters on a wall they ask what they are and you have to tell them the propety has a damp issue this makes propety unsaleable.

Edited July 30, 2012 by spider1