Local remapping and EGR delete recommendations

I had a check engine light on for 7 years and passed the tailpipe emissions test 3 times. They changed the rules to computer diagnostics and I failed LOL. I believe it was a 02 sensor and an air intake valve or something like that. The cost was high so I scrapped the car, well it was 11 years old with 375 km on it and the tranny was knocking a bit etc. etc.

Yea but it's not a proper 'emissions' test because the car doesn't actually have a sensor to measure it's emissions accurately.

It's more a test for displayed faults with the emission control systems.

They're not so popular because for a tenner you can buy a scanner to clear all fault codes on the ECU, often these will stay off long enough to pass a quick check - then come back on when you drive home.

What's the benefit of doing it?

It's more faster like.

What's the benefit of doing it?

A good remap can give better performance and better fuel economy..

What's the benefit of doing it?

Not sure if every diesel car is like a LR disco Td5 to re-map.

" The TD5 engine was basically de-tuned by Land Rover to meet various specifications & regulations set out by countries from around the world. With the Standard Defender running from 122 to 127 hp and the Discovery at 139 hp however the engine is capable of producing allot more power. "

If my memory serves we had the EGR removed and mapped from 139hp to around 180 hp. Better on fuel, much better torque and a lot lot nicer to drive. What's not to like about a re-map.

My personal theory over the EGR debacle. The EGR is simply a device that re routes a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders to be re-burnt, supposedly to reduce emmissions (slightly). Here is why it's a useless addition. The diesel combustion engine requires little to make it work, CLEAN air and fuel as it is a compression-ignition engine. Why would you hinder it's performance by feeding it mucky air from the engine via the EGR which eventually gums up and restricts performance. That's my theory anyhow.

Angel1.

---------- Post added 15-03-2018 at 19:15 ----------

And what about the pipes coming off the unit? I've seen a video where the guy just blocked them up, but he didn't go in to any details about if it is safe to do so and if it messes with the cars management system.

Stuffed a bolt in the pipe, jubilee clip round it, job done.

Angel1.

Not sure if every diesel car is like a LR disco Td5 to re-map.

 

" The TD5 engine was basically de-tuned by Land Rover to meet various specifications & regulations set out by countries from around the world. With the Standard Defender running from 122 to 127 hp and the Discovery at 139 hp however the engine is capable of producing allot more power. "

 

If my memory serves we had the EGR removed and mapped from 139hp to around 180 hp. Better on fuel, much better torque and a lot lot nicer to drive. What's not to like about a re-map.

 

My personal theory over the EGR debacle. The EGR is simply a device that re routes a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders to be re-burnt, supposedly to reduce emmissions (slightly). Here is why it's a useless addition. The diesel combustion engine requires little to make it work, CLEAN air and fuel as it is a compression-ignition engine. Why would you hinder it's performance by feeding it mucky air from the engine via the EGR which eventually gums up and restricts performance. That's my theory anyhow.

 

Angel1.

 

---------- Post added 15-03-2018 at 19:15 ----------

 

 

Stuffed a bolt in the pipe, jubilee clip round it, job done.

 

Angel1.

Which raises the question of the DPF filter. If those gasses aren't being fed back into the engine, won't they clog up the DPF quicker?

I'm always careful to use a DPF additive every 3k and Redex every tank anyway but that's because i'm paranoid because a DPF is bloody expensive!

You are right about diesels being under tuned. I'll get roughly a third extra torque just from a stage 1 remap and a few mpg in fuel efficiency. It's win-win if you ask me

Which raises the question of the DPF filter. If those gasses aren't being fed back into the engine, won't they clog up the DPF quicker?

 

I'm always careful to use a DPF additive every 3k and Redex every tank anyway but that's because i'm paranoid because a DPF is bloody expensive!

 

You are right about diesels being under tuned. I'll get roughly a third extra torque just from a stage 1 remap and a few mpg in fuel efficiency. It's win-win if you ask me

The standard info for cleaning out the DPF is to give the car a good blast and get it good and hot. This apparently gets rid of the soot in the DPF by burning it away.

Angel1,

Which raises the question of the DPF filter. If those gasses aren't being fed back into the engine, won't they clog up the DPF quicker?

Totally depends on the engine, some are just cleaner than others and won't have any problems.

Some (usually older) engines have enough problems keeping the DPF clear on a totally original engine.

Peugeot's have a complex additive system where a measure of ELOYS fluid is injected into the fuel system with every fuel-up. The only problem is that it relies on several components to work properly. And if one fails through age you get no regeneration and a blocked filter.

Plus people don't realise that the additive is used every time you fill up, so if you're one of those who puts in a fiver or tenner every few days you're draining your additive tank rapidly!

Peugeot's have a complex additive system where a measure of ELOYS fluid is injected into the fuel system with every fuel-up. The only problem is that it relies on several components to work properly. And if one fails through age you get no regeneration and a blocked filter.

 

Plus people don't realise that the additive is used every time you fill up, so if you're one of those who puts in a fiver or tenner every few days you're draining your additive tank rapidly!

I never had a clue about this. Where is this additive located? I should really check the levels

I never had a clue about this. Where is this additive located? I should really check the levels

The additive tank is usually located under the rear nearside wheel arch.

Like other parts of the car it really should get some notification of long term maintenance and service from Peugeot so you can do some preventative work to prevent it from failing (making sure the electrical wiring to the tank is clean and free of dirt ingress from the years of being on the road. Same applies to the window washer pump and power steering pump in the opposite corner, and the ABS unit in the passenger wheel arch).

But, like all manufacturers they wash their hands of the car when the warranty expires as they have no financial interest in keeping older cars on the road - despite the loss of consumer confidence in that brand.

Luckily, many car forums have picked up the ball and created some sort of list or guide of things to watch for. I've written a few for the Pug 307 and 308. Just simple maintenance jobs that take no more than half an hour, but could save you money in the long run and reduce the risk of the part failing - usually in the dead of night, middle of winter during the worst weather imaginable!

Egr/dpf ecu wiping is not recommended. Mot centres now use diagnostic software as requested by the DVLA. Have a look at dpf solutions on eBay

Mot centres now use diagnostic software as requested by the DVLA.

No they don't

DPF and EGR checks are part of the MOT, but it's a visual inspection.

Good post. That's probably why our two early LR Td5's passed their MOT minus the EGR.

 

Angel1.

You said that once already and someone already pointed out that the MOT changes in May. (Changed in May, but your post was in March).

Let us know how it gets on when the MOT is due again.