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Posts posted by ccit

  1. She has two choices:

    1. Put a lead on the dog, stay with it until it has produced and pick the faeces up immediately.

    2. Put a baskerville type muzzle on the dog before, and every time it goes out.


    What is your friend feeding her dog? If it is kibble and not good quality, she needs to be aware that it may contain ingredients that the dog cannot process, it therefore passes through the gut into the poo making it attractive to the dog.


    This is why it might be worth trying a raw diet, as previously suggested. The poo of raw fed dogs is very small and firm. The dog may be less attracted to this and will probably feel better too as it is high in protein and fat, low in carbohydrates. If she would like to try this, she needs to research it first - there is a thread on here about raw feeding.


    It's worth looking at the diet but really she should accept the fact that this habit will not go away and needs to deal with it long term.

  2. There is no harm in trying the various remedies but they probably won't work. If a dog has a penchant for coprophagia it probably will be with it for life. The only cure is to be scrupulous in cleaning up the garden or else muzzle the dog before you let it out. When taking it out for a walk, keep it on a lead or use a muzzle.

  3. This is just a guess because all there is to go on is what you say, but it sounds like your dog is quite anxious. If so, the house training is secondary to that.


    It sounds as if you want to rectify the problem and have stopped shouting at her so that is a good start. For now (to protect your carpets) it would be best to keep her confined to the kitchen. Once those new carpets have the scent of urine she could start to mark in the same place.


    Think about taking her to the vet to book her in for speying. At the same time, have a chat about the possibility of her having medication to take the edge off her anxiety. It needn't be for long - just enough for you to work with her. However, probably the best thing to do would be to get a good behaviourist in to see the dog. He or she will be able to offer specific advice to help you solve this problem.

  4. That amount is 1% of your dogs' body weight. That is also the figure that I work to and it is usually ok. If the OP uses the 1 to 1.2% of body weight formula the Stafford will need 160 to 192g per day, divided into two meals. This seems to be a more realistic amount. Of course if the dog is very active, it can be increased by 10%.

  5. You might want to contact Wainwright's customer support - they will give you advice. However, I would say split the daily allowance in half. I am not familiar with the breed, but to me 300g sounds like a lot for a small to medium size dog. I rarely go with the recommended daily allowances, they are usually far too high. If you do give 300g per day, keep a close eye on his weight and if it starts to increase, cut back in 10% increments until the right quantity is achieved. Poo should be formed and easy to pick up, leaving no residue. If it becomes soft then it could be due to overfeeding: Poop Points.

  6. This might be your key problem:

    I've got kids one being a baby crawling

    Presumably you obtained this puppy when your crawling baby was newborn? The fact that your dog is not house trained at 10 months of age is because you have not been able to put the work in right at the beginning. Looking after young children and one a tiny baby is quite enough work for one woman, never mind adding a puppy into the mix. Was it your husband who bought this dog into the house? Very often it is and then the woman has all the work. If he did obtain the dog then you really ought to look to him for help in this matter instead of taking it all on board yourself.


    If your husband/partner cannot help you with this problem and you are up for the challenge, the only thing that you can do is to go right back to the beginning. This means confining the dog and taking it out immediately after every meal and every hour. In the morning you have to get up quickly and quietly and take the dog out before you do anything else. You have to have the dog on a lead and stay with it until it produces. When this happens you must treat and praise. If the dog urinates or defaecates in the house remember that it is not it's fault - it is yours for not preventing it.

  7. Over the years three of my dogs have had this surgery and I have a friend whose dog has recently been operated on. First of all the good news - it can be highly successful in relieving the pain and following the recovery period, the dog may return to normal fitness. Unfortunately, as your dog has had the problem for so long there may be some joint and/or cartilage damage but the vet will be able to advise you of that after surgery.


    The main thing about this surgery is that it is absolutely crucial that you give good after care to prevent the dog from causing damage to itself. This means that he must be crated for a period of time afterwards - the vet will advise. When he is out of the crate, you should take him into the garden on a lead - do not allow him to be loose in case he runs and twists the leg. If he is a dog that jumps on the furniture then he must be prevented for some time after the operation. If you have stairs, use a safety gate to keep him away from them. It is the twisting that could cause damage and you don't want him to end up back in theatre. You should not trust your dog, particularly as he begins to get feel better.


    The recovery period can be stressful so be prepared for it. When they are allowed walks you need to to build up very slowly, five minutes first, subsequently increasing by the same and always on a lead. If he is a puller or a lunger, get a halti collar or similar to control him.


    It will probably be at least three months post surgery before he is allowed off lead but it doesn't matter because once recovered, he should do very well. None of mine needed continuous anti inflammatory medication following surgery.


    If you can afford hydrotherapy it is enormously helpful - would recommend Splashy Pups at Rutland Road. If your dog is insured, the company might pay for it - check your policy.

  8. This seems a very big change from the previous advice of Chappie. Did you ask the vet why she had changed her mind so radically? It just seems odd, especially in view of the history.


    What is the 'quarter of a pack' that you refer to? A pack could be 1kg, 0.5kg or whatever. When dogs are overweight it is because the owner has overestimated the amount they need to maintain a good body weight. If you are to succeed in this diet you must be less random and more specific in feeding amounts. It is important that you get into the habit of weighing the food and monitoring everything that goes into Poppy's mouth. She won't lose weight on raw if you continue to overfeed. If there is someone in your house that is feeding her scraps and treats then that must stop. You should also weigh her weekly - as Medusa has said, the weight loss should not be too fast.


    The diet doesn't sound very well balanced as raw diets go, particularly as there is no offal. Does this pack contain bone? As has been said, it is not usual to give rice, especially white rice.


    If you are going to pursue this then you should do some research yourself to ensure that Poppy doesn't miss out on vital elements of her nutrition. However, IMHO you would be better off speaking to customer services at Nutriment or similar and following their advice. That particular company sell a light version that is specifically for dogs who need to lose weight or who have a tendency to gain weight. It is perfectly balanced.

  9. If you do decide to try raw food, remember to read up about it in order to give a balanced diet. The lower RDA is 2% of body weight and for your overweight dog it might be best to give 2% of the body weight you want her to be, not what she is now.


    The reason that your vet recommends Chappie is probably because it is low in protein and fat. There are better products that meet this criteria. You could ask your vet what percentage of fat and protein is appropriate and look for a food that meets it. With your dog's history, Fish4Dogs weight control could be suitable because it is low fat and fish is good for digestive problems. Warm water will bring out the aroma which dogs tend to like. however, to get the weight off your dog, you will still need to weigh the food accurately and to stop treats.


    Please let us know what you decide to do and how you get on - your dog will be much healthier with less weight and hopefully it will lessen the chance of pancreatitis recurring.

  10. A raw diet can help with weight loss if you get the quantity right. However, I put mine on raw for the same reason and found that they put weight on, even at 2% of body weight.


    You should think about it carefully because of the pancreatitis. Raw food can have high fat levels which might exacerbate it. Your vet may not approve of a raw diet but you should speak to him or her first.


    Your dog should be able to lose weight gradually if you cut down the food that you are giving her. You are simply over feeding and once you get to grips with this she will start to lose weight. The amount that she needs will probably be very small indeed.


    Chappie is not a good food and if you want to change to something better, look for a product that is low in fat but has a decent amount of (named source) protein, e.g. Wainwright's Turkey and Vegetables grain free mature for senior dogs

    James Wellbeloved adult light

    Fish4 Dogs weight control version

    Wainwright's Light - salmon and potato/turkey and rice

    There are many more.


    Once you have settled on a suitable product, weigh the food accurately. You need a digital scale in one gram divisions. Start off at about half to two thirds of the recommended daily allowance. Weigh your dog weekly and adjust the food down by 10% if necessary.


    Remember, no treats or table scraps, although jerky is low in calories so is suitable as a treat.


    One of mine has digestive issues and was quite poorly following a changeover to raw feeding. The vet said that dogs like this need lower protein/fat. She was right. Your dog might be different but be careful. it's all too easy to get carried away with the raw feeding rhetoric but it is not suitable for all dogs.

  11. Do I have this right?:

    You have a photocopy of the Kennel Club registration of sire and dam? This should have the Kennel Club logo on the top.

    You have a copy of the pedigree chart of the father but not the mother.


    Presumably you want to fill in the missing pieces relating to the mother? In view of the fact that you have a copy of the KC registration of both parents you might be able to get the information required but you would probably have to telephone the relevant department at the Kennel Club to ask if it is possible.


    Why are you so concerned now when they made it clear in the advertisement that the litter was not registered? Did you see the mother and possibly the father? I am wondering if you are doubting the authenticity of the transaction itself and whether the pup is what/who they said it was. Are you thinking that the pup does not look typical of it's breed? If so, perhaps you could post a link to a picture of him or her?


    Nobody can say for sure why this litter wasn't registered (as I said in an earlier post) but the presumption is that there might be some irregularity with the mother, especially as you don't have her pedigree sheet. At a guess this sounds like she may have had too many litters in her lifetime or perhaps she was too young to have the litter registered.


    You may want to telephone the Kennel Club but you bought the pup without papers and as far as one can see, there is no irregularity because they were quite open about it in the advertisement. However, you said that they did put full papers in the advertisement so I would assume that to mean that the pedigree form of both sire and dam should have been given to you. If you really want it and they are not complying then you may want to look at whether it is a case for the small claims court but I am not at all sure about this course of action so further expert advice would be needed.

  12. As you probably know, the pedigree papers are different to KC registration although they both show the parentage. I have known breeders not to register a litter that is unplanned, probably for legislation reasons. For instance, the litter might push them over the number allowed before the need for a local authority breeder license.


    It's probably best to treat it as a learning experience since there is nothing more that can be done.

  13. Some breeders do not register their litters and it sounds as if this is the case here. There are different reasons, for example:


    * Cost - they don't want to pay the fee to the Kennel Club.

    * Paperwork - they can't, or don't want to complete the paperwork.

    * One or both of the parents are not registered with the Kennel Club.

    * The limitations on litter registration have been breached e.g. the bitch is too young, too old or has had too many litters.

    * Some breeders don't give the KC documents because they don't want their pups to be bred from and they see this as a way of preventing it (it doesn't though). Sometimes they sell the pups cheaper to take account of this. They can put endorsements on the paper and one of these is 'Progeny Not For Registration' to help prevent breeding. That doesn't always work either.


    As for your current dilemma, you could perhaps go back and ask them if they have registered the litter with the Kennel Club and if they haven't, ask why. There is nothing else you can do because they were advertised as not KC registered so they have done nothing wrong. You probably just need them to explain things properly.


    It shouldn't make any difference to you unless you want to breed from your dog or to enter pedigree dog shows. However, it is a lesson for other would-be pedigree puppy owners to get all the facts and information out into the open before purchase.

  14. Crimewave - rubydo1 has a point - this really isn't a good idea. How would you feel if you came home from holiday to find your little dog had escaped and got lost or perhaps been stolen? An unspeyed Chi bitch has some value to criminals.


    You need to book her in at a reputable kennels where you can be sure that she is safe and secure. You really shouldn't be leaving her in the home of a total stranger. BTW do consider getting her speyed first - it is much better for them as it it reduces the incidence of mammary tumours and also the risk of pyometra.

  15. Nutriment doesn't come in 'pretty packaging'. The chubbs are wrapped in plastic, just the same as Real Pet Grub. The smaller sizes come in thin plastic cartons, as is used for ice cream. The comparison should be made on the contents, not the packaging.


    Nutriment is an excellent product which is a complete meal and removes the risk of the owner not feeding a proper balanced diet. AFAIK the Real Pet Grub products are not complete and require the owner to have some expertise and time to give the dog the correct nutrition. With Nutriment and other raw complete meals you know exactly what you are getting, particularly in terms of the analysis.


    The cost saving in DIY raw dog food might not be as high as supposed when travelling costs are taken into account and buying the additional products to create a balanced meal, not to mention the time factor in getting there. Added to that is the sheer convenience and as you say, ".........there are some things for which it is OK to pay others to do." That sums up nicely my feelings on prepared raw complete meals. BTW I do not feed Nutriment.

  16. There is also a shop on Langsett Road at Hillsborough called Better4Pets. They have the advantage of a website with products displayed and priced - see here.

    Nutriment is an excellent product and all the work has been done for you in terms of supplying the correct nutrition for your dogs. If you haven't already done so, it would be best to learn a bit about raw food nutrition and about getting the quantities right. The staff at either of these shops will be able to advise on how to give a balanced diet.

  17. I have tried to register on Sheffield history forum many times. The registration process does not accept the (correct) answer to the security question. I have sent messages but have had no response. Have also asked on the Facebook page but no joy. Are there any administrators or moderators on the site? If there is anyone on this forum who can help I would be grateful.

  18. Mid cycle is the ideal time to spey a bitch. However, it is not always possible and vets do spey outside of this window. In fact they sometimes have to, most notably when a pyometra develops. Bitches can come into season from once every five months to once every twelve months. It is therefore not always possible to know when a bitch was last in season and this is particularly the case with rescued animals. It's important to get them speyed so that they can safely go to their new home as quickly as possible. However, where the vet does not wish to operate due to doubt regarding timing, they may be able to offer an injection to defer the season.

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