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About corgigasman

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    gas-safe engineer

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  1. Hi GJC, had lots of similar issues like this, will need manifolds upstairs tracing and replacing ? Done lots on newish builds on old shirecliffe college site, cheers, Steve
  2. Best solution is to drain the system to the required level for the work, then fit solder joints, imperial to metric, thus allowing you to fit an available 22mm gate valve. Happy to view your installation and provide a written quote, free of charge, cheers, Steve
  3. Technically a bayonet fitting is not classed as CAPPED OFF, you need to have it capped properly.....contact council and ask, they will INSIST you have it capped properly.....I know this because I am asked to do this several times a year by council tenants
  4. Typically your cylinder will cool over a few hours, depending on the quality of lagging, but will not remain hot for two days. The water certainly has a heat source, if you are certain the boiler has not been on then it must be the immersion, cheers, Steve
  5. The fused spur to the right hand side of the timer in your second picture should isolate the power to the heating system/boiler
  6. Once the valves are open bleed the radiators whilst power is OFF. when everything is full, unclip the valves, they will naturally spring back to closed position, then turn power on, turn room-stat up and select 'heating on' on the timer, boiler should then fire up if gas is on
  7. Yes, the valves are the 'white box things'. They have a lever on the side, with the power OFF you can slide these levers and feel the resistance of the spring pulling them back, some hook around a notch to keep them open, others need you to press them in to keep locked open. Once both valves are fixed open then you can bleed all the radiators and fill the system. If the fan is noisy then it may need replacing as it may not be pulling enough to keep the fan proving switch (APS) open
  8. It will be air-locked, you need to open both valves in airing cupboard when filling up, in severe cases you may need to temporarily force mains pressure into system to blast out any slugs of air. You have a bullet proof boiler (fans sometimes go) and a new pump. Flush some cleanser round, drain and refill with inhibitor, fit a magnetic filter ideally and you should have years of low maintenance heating, cheers, Steve
  9. Pipework in the wall at side of BB is usually left in place, USUALLY two are circs (that may become redundant) and two are live central heating pipes, boiler can be decommissioned and fire left working OR both appliances totally removed. First obstacle is to find a location for new boiler and sort new pipe runs, gas in particular. Expect quotes of £2000-£2500 for a boiler with 7-10yr warranty. Happy to survey property, discuss install and provide a written quote, cheers, Steve
  10. How have you come to this conclusion? Is it a combi? Have you had an engineer out ? Happy to assist, cheers, Steve
  11. A warranty is usually backed by the manufacturer, so you can get boilers installed with 2,3,5,7,10yr manufacturer warranties. These all require the boiler to be serviced annually BUT they all, in one phrase or another ALSO require the heating system to be 'adequately maintained'. If the system is not adequately maintained then you are potentially leaving manufacturers a loophole to get out of any warranty. Best way to assure this is by fitting a magnetic filter, if the system is adequately cleaned during your boilers installation (installers are obliged to ensure this) then by cleaning out the filter annually and topping up your inhibitor then I would argue that your system IS adequately maintained, and you are fully covered. Whilst working as a contractor manufacturers would actually extent a basic warranty from 2 to 5yrs simply because we had used their recommended chemicals and fitted a filter. Obviously the above is different from on-going 'service plans'....here a company 'maintains' your EXISTING boiler for a set monthly fee. In this case I would say BUYER BEWARE. These plans generally only mean that you have a boiler serviced annually (costing between £40-£100) but your monthly plan may cost several hundreds over a year. I recently attended a customer who pays £24/month for such a plan (about £300/yr). The company recently attended to 'service' her boiler, they explained her boiler required a new expansion vessel and PRV(pressure release valve) and went on to say that because these faults were due to dirt in the system (questionable) then it would not be covered in the service contract, and she would have to pay over £400. Luckily she asked me for a second opinion. I found the boiler DID indeed require these parts, however the boiler obviously had NOT been serviced correctly as the condense trap was almost completely blocked with debris. I was able to fit the new parts PLUS a magnetic filter for considerably less than the price the service company had quoted. On other similar plans I have found it common place for BiG companies to offer cover over several years (at great total cost over time), only for the customer to be told that, during a break-down, the parts for this boiler are obsolete.....so you need a new boiler any way. Don't mean to put a downer on the subject but you really need to understand what you are getting with any warranty or service plan, cheers, Steve
  12. A regular (vented) cylinder is usually about three and a half foot high with an insulated outer. An un-vented cylinder is at least five foot tall, often white, has writing printed next to all the connections on the cylinder and has an addition basketball sized expansion cylinder mounted above it. If you have the second un-vented type then you need a gas engineer with additional un-vented qualifications to check the cylinder too to be fully covered
  13. Yes, Storey 1984 concludes this correctly, regulations are open to interpretation, which is wrong, it should be black and white. Manufacturers Instructions apparently over-rule general gas regs (don't agree with myself).....why should a WB flue that previously followed gas regs SUDDENLY differ from a Baxi/Vaillant/Ideal etc flue ? Total BS. Nothing to do with the fact that BG fit almost entirely WB boilers and BG have a BIG influence over WB regs and gas regs in general. Big companies SEEM to make their OWN rules. I have been told in no uncertain terms previously by my LOCAL GAS INSPECTOR that plume kits could not be used this way. Apparently regs change.....with WB and BG persuasion
  14. Indeed. Gas regs state a plume-kit can not be used to turn an illegal flue position INTO a legal one. Worcester have recently updated their own criteria (possibly under BG persuasion??) to defy these regulations. Manufacturer's Instructions APPARENTLY over-rule general gas regs ?? So for 12yrs I have told customers 'you can't have a flue there'........now Worcester (and BG) move the goal posts.
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