Martin_s

Granted you don't want something to remove your vital operating system files but it sounds a lot like you had an infection that had attacked those same files... This is pure hypothesis you understand but if that's the case you'd hardly want to continue to use a PC that had a trojan recording your every keystroke to some scum ready to empty your bank accounts, hack your email accounts, etc... As noted above though, unless you inform the actual programmer and provide detailed info on what happened they'll never know there's a problem..

Got it, played it and finished it all in about 5 hours.. Not quite what I expected for my money but then it was a good game and the commentary option was strangely addictive..

No offense taken... I've had to learn about RAID the hard way and my experience has been somewhat limited. From an actual users point of view I've found the difference between a SATA I stripe (RAID0) vs' a straight SATA II disk negligible but then I haven't had a stopwatch to do proper comparisons.. Thanks for the info though... and would you recommend any decent RAID5 controllers/boards as my experience to date with the software ones has been appalling.

Ultimately people are going to pay what they are willing to pay and you'll see that a lot of businesses will work on the basis of BIN (Buy it Now) to ensure they cover their costs. The practice of extortionate P&P is one that's covered in the T&C for eBay but to be honest it's not something I've seen tackled too much and quite frankly eBay and Paypal are just plain cr*p at policing their rules and policies.. For myself I only buy on eBay when I know I can't get what I want easily elsewhere or when I'm out for a bargain.. Selling, I rarely expect to make a profit but it doesn't hurt to get rid of stuff that's clogging up space..

Try this.. $output = preg_replace("/<head\b[^>]*>(.*?)<\/head>/i","",$input); Far as I can tell you just left out the backslashes that help delimit the pattern you require. I've added the i flag to make it non-case dependent and escaped the backslash in the </head> segment.. All tested and worked fine.

I can confirm that the guarantee's are truly worthless..

I played with RAID a lot last year and tested a few of the configurations to destruction (I'd like to say deliberately but it wasn't ).. Ultimately the RAID 0 (Stripe) is just plain fraught with dangers so unless you have a backup of that drive every other day or so you're running some serious risks.. Given that you now get SATA II disks with 3Gb data transfer speeds it's also pretty moot. RAID 1 (Mirror) is great for ensuring you still have a working hard drive if you're concerned about a drive going Pzzztt but you still need to remember that 2 drives will generate more heat and if one drive fails because of environmental issues (heat, short circuit, etc..) then you can bet the other one will be stressed under the same conditions.. RAID 5 involves duplicating the data over 3 or more disks and more or less using striping and mirroring at the same time.. but a lot of the controllers use more system resources, especially the software driven RAID drivers so you may end up with a false economy. Ultimately I've gone from having RAID 5.. then switched to RAID 1 and RAID 0 (with backup) before deciding on regular Ghost 9.0 backups to off machine network backup and single SATA II disks..

I've been using eBay a lot to source printers and the like but for the first 2 months, and even now I'll watch auctions to get an idea for just what sort of limit to set or if my own budget limits are even worth bidding with. Sniping is something I've started doing though purely and simply because someone will always push the price up to your limit if you bid early and that means it costs you, as a buyer more... granted it's a pain in the butt to be on the opposite end of that equation but at the end of the day watchers have to be a good thing if it gives you an idea of just how much people are after what you want.

My money would be on this too... RAM is much more likely to cause this sort of problem.. The PSU would either zorch everything, itself or just cause reboots rather than freezes.. .. and the CPU would likely just fall over as well.. I'd get the memtest as Squirrelz suggested and run that to see if you do indeed have a problem with it..

Well you could use the pigment inks that are normally used for the C series printers but you could guarantee that your printhead will be clogged and unusable within a few months even if you use it regularly (which would be essential or it'd clog a whole lot sooner) Even then you'd still need to get colour profiles for the inks to even out the differences between the normal dyebase (which is what the R220 model uses) and pigment inks. Personally I'd recommend looking for an alternative printer that already uses the correct inks.. eg: the R800 ( http://www.epson.co.uk/products/inkjet_printers/Stylus_Photo_R800.htm ). That way at least you wouldn't end up buying a new printer every month or so... If you're serious about printing a LOT of stuff as well I'd seriously consider a CIS kit as well and bulk ink to further reduce the per CD/page costs.. but that's a whole other topic. Hope that helps..

Friend of mine has seen the same thing recently... There do seem to be problems..

Ruby... I don't see how you can expect to pay for software when you've already accepted a working PC as-is from the shop. I'd go with Wendygs's suggestions and approach with the T-alk (WTF Is that word in the filter for?!) quietly and carry a big stick option.. Given that the discussion is happening on a public forum that may well affect their future sales I think you have a big stick to wave around indeed.

In all honesty I'd say save your money and look for a "passive" (ie: fanless) graphics card upgrade.. There are plenty on eBay and with everyone scrambling for the PCI-express cards there's plenty of people offloading their old AGP cards for you to choose from. Failing that you can always check out silentpc.co.uk and look at Zalman fans or heatsinks for your graphics card.. The key to all is making sure that: a) your card is compatible to the solutions provided (some need holes in the card circuit board for attachment) b) your card is not going to overstress the fan or heatsink c) you're actually going to be able to remove the existing fan All important stuff.. best of luck...

You're going to get a lot of peoples opinions on this so I suspect this will just add to the confusion but so far tried: LG L1515S 40 units working.. only one had a dead pixel and another was rough handled by a child and needs to have the button panel replaced LG L1715S My first TFT and worked wonderfully... Have a number of clients/friends using this one and it works just fine LG L1730S A slightly heavier version of the L1715S and the only problem I've experienced is one unit overheating and going wobbly on me for about 20 minutes before it cooled down.. Only happened once an in 35 degree room temps after being on for 10 hours solid.. Currently sourcing the Acer AL1916S screen for a school and will be interested to see how that works out. Word has it the earlier AL1915 model was prone to failures though...

Just to note you can also run DDR400 - 3200 RAM in a system if it'll accept 2700 or you're planning on running it next to 2700 RAM. It'll just run itself at 2700 (DDR333) speed.. The reason I mention this is that you'll often find that the older RAM is actually more expensive (weird but true).