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zach

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  1. That's the ones. Yes, I know what they say but IMO it was just too much of a coincidence. I can't prove it, and they would never admit to it. Just a case of adding to junk and moving on.
  2. I made the mistake of getting an account with SYT? I think it's called that, the one where you can buy bus passes etc. The day after joining, the email account I used was getting hammered with junk and still is...coincidence? I think not!! I'm not that bothered as I used a 'spare' email address to join.
  3. I've found that the cheaper a tablet is, the screen will be much lower quality, the sound will be nasty, and it might be very slow. Most, if not all the cheaper tablets have a slow CPU and very little RAM. Depending what you want to use it for, this could be a problem. Without wanting to start the whole Apple/Android argument, I find Android gives more freedom over IOS/iPadOS, for what I use tablets for. Rough guess (Owned all) Samsung A Series (S are better but more expensive) Huawei T Series (M are better but more expensive) I use the Huawei M5-10" Excellent tablet but not the cheapest going.
  4. It's not really what you'd expect from a main link though. Agreed, better than ISDN but in this day and age, it should be way above what you're getting. If it does what you need, fair enough but I hope the price reflects the speeds.
  5. The only one I can think of was Rocket (not sure if that was Walls) Might be worth a look on Google Images.
  6. I use a HDhomerun, that needs wired network and an aerial lead but t doesn't matter where it is, as long as the network goes to your router/WiFi. I don't know if HDHomerun do an app for TVs, so have a read up, I mainly use it on tablets and PCs. Other options would be a TV stick but the apps are normally all SD and tend to look a bit nasty...or they did the last time I looked. Depending where you live an indoor aerial might work. I've NEVER got one to work properly!
  7. I've never filled a 128GB with just the OS. Change a few settings and leave the System to do it's thing. I think I'm on about 65GB ATM. 256 will be plenty. Try not to skimp on the external side though, it will have a knock on with the rest of the system. No need at all to go down the NVMe route for external but a decent caddy and SSD will be more than enough. Let us know how it all turns out.
  8. I thought the CPUs were soldered down in the mini, or do you mean get the i7 with lower RAM and SSD? I put another 32GB of RAM in mine as I do use Xcode a bit but mainly the video and audio programs. That's also the reason I use macOS and Windows on it (personal preference) The 32GB of RAM wasn't silly money, it also wasn't Apple RAM! I think you'll see a big improvement over the 2009 model but it's worth keeping in mind that it will still be running on a laptop type hardware. Although good, it won't return the same power as the desktop type setup. I'd have a good read on the upgrade potential, the RAM should be easy enough but the internal SSD might be expensive to get the right one. I did need a bit more GPU power, while the AMD 580X in mine isn't a power house, it does cope quite well for what I need. No matter which you go for, do your homework as Apple are not known for their bargain prices. When you're spending the best part of £1000 on a bit of kit, you want it right. EDIT: It seems the internal SSD is soldered down, so upgrading that isn't an option.
  9. Saved a few quid there, glad it all went well for you 😉
  10. I thought the internal SSD in the new mac mini was PCI-E NVMe which are much faster than SATA SSD's. I have the iMac 27" so not 100% sure how the mini is configured. Do you have the specs to hand on the one you have, or thinking of buying? I didn't try the external SATA SSD with macOS. I did test it with another OS and that worked fine.
  11. Here's the link to the 2.5" enclosure that returned the best speeds for me. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PBD1K4M/
  12. Near enough bang on the money with the numbers I get. I run macOS from a Thunderbolt 3 enclosure with a Gen 3 NVMe 1TB. Not cheap at nearly £250 for both parts, but worth it IMO. I will look over my purchase history to find the best USB-C (3.0) caddy I found. It wasn't the cheapest but beat other so called USB-C enclosures by a mile on speeds...with a fairly basic 2.5" SSD inside. If I remember right, it wasn't silly money, about £25.
  13. Usually not, some are just clips you push back to release the keyboard, then do the ribbon cable, others may have a couple of screws etc. There's not much chance you'll break the whole thing, if any at all. As above, the cable is usually the bit that causes issues. Have a quick look at a video of it being done as the clips can open different ways. I have fitted many but not on the laptop you have so youtube will be your best bet. Looking at the keyboard in the link, it could be just clips at the top to release it, then feed the new one in bottom first after connecting the cable and gently press down so the clips click back over the top. Youtube will show it much better than I can explain it. For just over a tenner it has to be worth a go. It's usually a job that only requires a bit of common sense and patience. Remove the mains and battery before you start (just to be on the safe side)
  14. Get a price on a new keyboard and go from there. They are usually quite cheap and in most cases, you can fit it yourself. It may be 5 years old but if it still does what you want, fix it...if the price of the parts are OK EDIT: Use the laptop part number from the sticker on the bottom and put it into eBay, see what comes back under the parts section.
  15. It all depends on the host PCs virtualization settings. Both AMD and Intel has the ability on newer boards for a virtual PC to tap into the 'real' power of the PC and GPU. There's no quick answer as VMs are used for many things, listing your PC specs and what you're looking for in a VM would help. It's also worth mentioning that to get the best from a VM, you need a fair bit of RAM, I wouldn't go under 16GB...but that's me, not a rule. A percentage is also dependent on the host PC, you're not just going to install an OS and look at it, you'll want to use it like you would any other OS. The good thing is, it won't cost you anything to try. There's quite a few free versions of VM software to go at and the OS would only cost you money if it was something like Windows and you decided to keep it. If you do go for Windows, just let it nag you a bit until you decide. Linux is mostly free if you went with that.
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