[monstercrab]

Originally Posted by monstercrab

it could be any of the faults the guys on here have suggested,
but have you checked the wiring loom to the P.C.B,seems a
little funny you dropping the front cover and the boiler firing
up.Had a problem on a Alpha boiler when you closed
the front cover boiler wouldnt fire up,turned out one of the 3 connection wires
from the gas valve to the PCB had worked loose and closing the front cover
moved the gas valve wire stopping it from firing
regards Phil
P.S sounds more like a thermister or as Andy says a combustion
problem but just a thought

Glad you seem to have it sorted andy,thats what were here for
and we didnt charge a penny,
regards phil

[Jon26]

Originally Posted by Mr Peacock

Like Dan says, the sludge is kept inside the machine and the machine is always sited where it wont cause a mess. You should be aware that no one can guarantee your pipework, and fittings against leaking after a powerflush. Although it is rare, and in extreme cases, it is only the sludge that is preventing leaks and weeps from fittings such as rad valves. The best thing to do is get one of us guys round who can advise you.

steve peacock

www.oneheating.co.uk

Hi - given that the majority of fittings are under the floor and therefore out of sight is there a smart way of discovering if any are leaking? Or would it be a case of lifting the floorboards in each room? or just waiting for a stained and bulging ceiling to appear?

How long after powerflushing do the leaks normally take to show up?

Appreciate these probably aren't easy questions to answer

Thanks

[Mr Peacock]

Originally Posted by Jon26

Hi - given that the majority of fittings are under the floor and therefore out of sight is there a smart way of discovering if any are leaking? Or would it be a case of lifting the floorboards in each room? or just waiting for a stained and bulging ceiling to appear?

How long after powerflushing do the leaks normally take to show up?

Appreciate these probably aren't easy questions to answer

Thanks

Hi, Yes there is a smart way to test, and its by air pressure testing. It is better to test with air as it wont make a mess and can help find the leak via the noise you hear from the escaping air. With that said, there is only 1 true test and that is under temperature when the system is running. I didnt mean to worry you regarding the possibility of leaks as like I said, they dont happen that often, but it is something you should be aware of.

Regards.. Steve Peacock

www.oneheating.co.uk

[Jon26]

Thanks. No problems - I wasn't too worried, I tend towards been a realist. I do have an aversion to folding back carpet and unscrewing floor boards though

I'll be in touch for a boiler service and powerflush once the weather is better, just in case a new boiler is needed.

[Mr Peacock]

Originally Posted by Jon26

Thanks. No problems - I wasn't too worried, I tend towards been a realist. I do have an aversion to folding back carpet and unscrewing floor boards though

I'll be in touch for a boiler service and powerflush once the weather is better, just in case a new boiler is needed.

Let us know when your ready, Always happy to help and advise.

Steve Peacock

www.oneheating.co.uk

[citywide]

Hi, I agree with Steve, you can test with air but the true test is running the heating upto temperature. Having said that, we have done at least 100 powerflushes in the last year and only one has had a leak and that was from a radiator. If any leak was to occur it is far more likely to be from a radiator than copper pipework as radiators are far more susceptible to the effects of corrosion caused by sludge in your system, therefore the leak should be visible as soon as it occurs during the flush.
Thanks
Dan
City Wide Heating Services
07581193693

[Micky ET]

I Always think it is best like mr peacock to advise the customer of all potentail risks involved in a job.

To the op have you tried putting some fernox f5 in your system if you are planning on having your system flushed in the next few months it may help to start breking the sludge down.

[Twitcher]

Originally Posted by Jon26

Hi - given that the majority of fittings are under the floor and therefore out of sight is there a smart way of discovering if any are leaking? Or would it be a case of lifting the floorboards in each room? or just waiting for a stained and bulging ceiling to appear?

How long after powerflushing do the leaks normally take to show up?

Appreciate these probably aren't easy questions to answer

Thanks

Any leaks for us would be a logistical nightmare, most of our floors are of the Karndean/Amtico type.....

[Blackbeard]

Black Dust, has anyone had this problem?
I have been having a problem with my boiler, which is still under warranty and the engineer called yesterday to fix it. He heard the noise the boiler was making and said he thought he knew what the problem was and asked for a sheet of paper. After stripping out the gas valve he cleaned it out and a large quantity of "Black Dust" came out which he deposited on the paper for me to see. I asked where this had come from and he said from the gas supply and it was a reaction of hydrogen sulphide with the metal pipes. At first I thought he was pulling my leg but as the boiler is in my office I used the internet to search for the problem and this is what I found.

"Although it might sound quite harmless, Black Dust is causing big problems for gas consumers throughout the UK and Ireland. Black Dust is caused when hydrogen sulphide attacks metal. Hydrogen sulphide is present in natural gas, which is commonly used in the home in central heating systems. Hydrogen sulphide has a distinctive smell – that of rotten eggs – and is a toxic gas. It is highly corrosive and reacts with metals by creating a layer of metal sulphide, which covers the surface of the metal. In boilers this metal sulphide occurs as copper sulphide - a black film present on copper piping.

Natural gas used by consumers in their homes normally contains very low levels of hydrogen sulphide (commonly less than 1 part per million). At this level a film develops inside of copper pipes but it is relatively harmless as it remains intact. If the amount of hydrogen sulphide rises the copper sulphide layer can fracture and break off into metallic-like pieces. These pieces break down further to form Black Dust which can block valves and injectors in appliances. The blockage normally causes a reduction in heat output from the boiler. In rare cases Black Dust can block gas pipes.

Unfortunately there seems to be no way to eradicate Black Dust other than reducing hydrogen sulphide levels in natural gas. There are methods that can be used to help control it which include:

* cleaning affected appliances (however, copper sulphide and Black Dust will remain in the pipework);
* fitting filters (however, filters need fairly regular removal and cleaning);
* sealing internal pipe surfaces to help stabilise film and prevent Black Dust (however, the long term efficiency of this method has not yet been proved)."
http://www.ciphe.org.uk/Professional...th/Black-Dust/

I asked if there was a cure and he said no! the only way was to fit a filter at the meter and replace all the pipe work and that the gas suppliers were not accepting any responsibility fro the problem.
Since I found out about this I have done a larger search on the internet and I have found that is a common problem.
Anyone else had the problem?

[corgigasman]

You will find this 'black dust' everywhere. Many gas valves have a filter on the inlet side which will become blocked with a wax/powder coating which needs clearing periodically. Regular servicing of appliances will help prevent any problems but, as your research shows, it is a problem we seem to be stuck with

[lilypiglet]

Have an F28 error on my Vaillant combi!!! Have searched websites, supposedly a problem with the gas supply or ignition, well the gas supply is ok, but can't see if it's sparking the ignition because it's a closed unit!!! Any ideas??? Would prefer to sort it myself if it's simply a lock-out code.
Thanks guys!!

[lilypiglet]

Just to add.....It IS sparking, it goes through the 3 reset ignition attempts and then it brings up the error code again. Partial blockage in the burner maybe??

[Complete-Heat]

Originally Posted by lilypiglet

Have an F28 error on my Vaillant combi!!! Have searched websites, supposedly a problem with the gas supply or ignition, well the gas supply is ok, but can't see if it's sparking the ignition because it's a closed unit!!! Any ideas??? Would prefer to sort it myself if it's simply a lock-out code.
Thanks guys!!

F28 is lockout code for flame failure, so could be related to no gas, faulty/sticking gas valve, ignition leads, electrodes, poor rectification.

Have you tried resetting the boiler and seeing if it will fire up again or does it go straight to F28 again. Probably needs checking by engineer, could be something simple like needing new electrode as they warp over time.

Also on the Vaillant, a blocked or frozen condensate pipe will cause the boiler to give a F28 fault code.

[lilypiglet]

Originally Posted by Complete-Heat

F28 is lockout code for flame failure, so could be related to no gas, faulty/sticking gas valve, ignition leads, electrodes, poor rectification.

Have you tried resetting the boiler and seeing if it will fire up again or does it go straight to F28 again. Probably needs checking by engineer, could be something simple like needing new electrode as they warp over time.

Also on the Vaillant, a blocked or frozen condensate pipe will cause the boiler to give a F28 fault code.

Gas supply is fine, have tried the reset ignition and it goes through 3 attempts at igniting, green light comes on and then goes to red and F28, so I'm presuming it's not holding the flame. Looks like a job for an engineer then, grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!
Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated.

[Complete-Heat]

If you can see it sparking then next stage is ignition of gas and flame rectification. So, probably points to gas valve. Sometimes the wiring loom can short out the valve.

Engineer could test for voltage at the valve and check if valve is passing gas to the main burner.

[lilypiglet]

Thanks again, will give the landlord a ring and see if he can get an engineer at some point.

[Micky ET]

Originally Posted by lilypiglet

Thanks again, will give the landlord a ring and see if he can get an engineer at some point.

Which vallaiant is it ? (model) Some are prone to pcb faults especially to the ecotec pro, It could also be the flame dectection electrode or spark electrodes not far enough apart. If you get stuck give us a call.

[misty3]

Sorry if this is a daft question... but will it damage our combi boiler if we turn the water off for a while?

[Mr Peacock]

Originally Posted by misty3

Sorry if this is a daft question... but will it damage our combi boiler if we turn the water off for a while?

it will be fine as long as you dont run any hot taps. why do you want to turn it off if you dont mind me asking?

steve peacock

www.oneheating.co.uk

[misty3]

Originally Posted by Mr Peacock

it will be fine as long as you dont run any hot taps. why do you want to turn it off if you dont mind me asking?

steve peacock

www.oneheating.co.uk

Thanks for that, we are having trouble with our outside tap, and maybe away for a few days.. don't want to have the garage flooded!