Fly strike!

Please watch out for flystrike , with the weather being wet and hot etc. i had a friend phone me yesterday from down the road and ended up sorting the situation out, heres some info please keep an eye on your bunnies it happens very quickly

Fly strike, or blowfly strike, is a serious condition, mainly affecting rabbits, that occurs during summer months. Fly strike is caused by flies; attracted to damp fur, urine, faeces or the odour of rabbit scent gland, lay their eggs on or around the rabbit's rear end where they hatch within hours into a seething bunch of maggots that eat into the rabbit's flesh, eating it alive and releasing toxins in the process.

To understand the severity of this problem and recommendations for veterinary treatment, see vet Glen Cousquer's flystrike article on the World Wide Wounds site.

The article recommends the natural plant based product Xenex Ultra Spot On (made by Genitrix) as a preventative. The product is applied every 2 weeks and is formulated from coconut oil triglycerides. Available from Pilgrims Natural Petcare

Greenbottles, (see photo above) one of the main culprits when it comes to rabbit fly strike, also infect sheep and so are more likely to occur in sheep farming areas. However they are not the only flies that are attracted to rabbits and cause fly strike.

Overweight and arthritic rabbits, rabbits with heavy dewlaps, those prone to sticky bottom or suffering from a urinary infection are most at risk from fly strike but all rabbits should be checked for fly strike at least twice daily in summer and treated with one of the veterinary licensed products such as Xenex or Rearguard.

Just dining on too much fresh, rich grass can make even an otherwise healthy bunny produce too many soft droppings. The garden is not just a place for your rabbit to exercise, if it's got a great lawn then it's a food fest! Let your rabbit out for short periods initially and then increasingly long periods if there's a lot that's good for rabbits to eat in the garden.

Rearguard contains cyromazine, an insect growth inhibitor affecting the chitin mechanism the larvae have to use to shed their skin in order to grow. It gives 8 - 10 weeks protection when applied to the rabbit's rear and has a good safety record, although there is some evidence then when fed to poultry, the flies do eventually develop a resistance. Rearguard should not be used on broken skin.

Insect repellents do not do the same job as Rearguard although Neem, (Azadirachtin indica), often included in natural insect repellent shampoos, also interferes with the chitin mechanism and is used in organic farming as a pesticide in the US. In the UK and Canada, however, it is not yet licensed for that purpose and so cannot be sold as such.

If you find maggots on your rabbit then take it to the vet immediately. A flyblown rabbit can get ill from fly strike very quickly. Some sources say you should dip the rabbit's bottom in water to remove the maggots but damp rabbit fur is not only almost impossible to shave off but also a potent attractor of the flies that laid the eggs in the first place. Fly strike is one of those "Get to the Vet NOW!" conditions that you don't mess around with. It looks awful and it is but vets know it can happen very quickly so don't worry that they'll think you're an awful rabbit owner. Eggs can turn into maggots in just a few hours in warm weather. Your vet will be glad you're bringing your rabbit in as soon as you spotted the fly strike, which is a serious medical condition requiring immediate veterinary treatment!

The preferred method of treatment for rabbit fly strike is to remove the maggots using tweezers and shave off any damp or dirty fur. Although you can remove the maggots you can get hold of as a first aid measure, rabbit skin is very thin and tears easily. Your vet will not only have skilled and experienced staff on hand but they will also be able to administer sedation or an anaesthetic to make the process easier.

Rabbits who have had fly strike will also often need antibiotics to prevent infection, anti-inflammatory/pain killing drugs and sometimes fluids.

Prevention of fly strike is not easy, but fly mesh over the front of the hutch, insect repellents, fly strips and preventing the conditions that make a rabbit prone to fly strike in the first place will obviously contribute. Rearguard, Xenex and vigilance together with these measures provide the best protection.

please also note that we still have a myxomatosis problem too. Please keep your rabbit vaccinated ever six months ,


What causes myxomatosis
The disease myxomatosis in rabbits is caused by a virus. The virus is a type of pox virus which grows best in the skin of rabbits. like all viruses the organism is minute and can only be seen under the electron microscope.

What are the signs of myxomatosis
The very first signs we can see are puffy, fluid swellings around the head and face. 'sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips, tiny swellings on the insides of the ear and puffy swellings around the anus and genitalia. Within a day or so, these swellings can become so severe as to cause blindness and there may become some distortion around the face, mouth, ears and nose.

Which rabbits are susceptible to myxomatosis
In this country, the European rabbit ( Oryctolagus ) is highly susceptible to the disease. The European brown hare is sometimes, but rarely, affected with myxomatosis.

What breeds of rabbit are affected
All breeds of rabbit are affected, including our wild rabbit found in the country, all breeds of pet and show rabbits including dwarf rabbits, lop eared rabbits and exotics. There is little evidence that one breed is more susceptible than another.

Where did myxomatosis come from?
Originally, myxomatosis was imported from Brazil (where it was first discovered in the 1930's) to Australia in 1950.this was to control the massive populations of rabbits in that sub-continent. In Brazil, the cotton Tailed rabbit (Sylvilagus) is affected by the disease to a minor degree as only tiny lumps are produced by this self-limiting disease. However, in Australia the disease was devastating and markedly reduced the rabbit population.

How did the disease get to Britain?
The disease was transmitted from Australia by a French Physician, doctor A Delille, who wished to control the rabbit population on his country estate near Paris. The disease rapidly spread into the wild population in France and then was brought, entirely by accident, from France in 1953. There is no evidence that the disease was intentionally brought into Britain but there is no doubt that some farmers moved the disease around using diseased rabbits to control the population of the rabbits locally.

How is the disease spread.
Myxomatosis is spread by blood sucking insects. A major insect parasite which transmits the disease in this country is the rabbit flea which is frequently found on wild rabbits although is less common on pet rabbits. In other countries, including some European countries, it is known that mosquitoes are a major insect vector of Myxomatosis. Although this has never been proved in Britain, there is strong circumstantial evidence that mosquitoes transmit Myxomatosis in the United Kingdom. Incidentally, Myxomatosis is not easily spread by simple contact from one rabbit to another. For instance if a Myxomatosis-infected rabbit is placed in the same hutch as a healthy rabbit and neither animal is parasitised by fleas or mosquitoes, then the disease is virtually never transmitted by contact. Myxomatosis virus can remain alive in the blood of fleas for many months and it is probably by over wintering of fleas in rabbit burrows the disease is transmitted from year to year

What happens when a Myxomatosis-infected flea bites a susceptible rabbit?
As the mosquito or flea bites the rabbit a small amount of the live virus is placed in the skin of the rabbit as the insect sucks blood. Within a few days the virus is transmitted to a local lymph node and then passes into the blood of the rabbit which enables it to be moved around to several sites. The virus mainly multiples in the skin around the eyes ,the nose ,the face, the soft skin inside the ears and also the skin around the anus and genitals of the rabbit.

What is the incubation period of Myxomatosis?
The incubation period varies slightly from one animal to another but can be as short as five days and as long as fourteen days ( incubation period is the time from the point of introduction of the virus into the animal to the first time that clinical signs of illness are seen).

After infection how long do rabbits usually survive.
This also varies. Some animals may survive for weeks or months after infection but, in general, if the infection is severe in a susceptible rabbit, death occurs within twelve days.

How does the disease progress?
Within a short space of time, affected rabbits become blind because of the swelling around the eyes and for this reason feeding and drinking is often difficult. However, one can sometimes see wild rabbits suffering from Myxomatosis quietly grazing. Of course, at this stage many rabbits become prey to animals such as foxes and other predators. Other rabbits may well become injured or killed on roads but the common cause of death is a secondary lung infection which often occurs around day eight after the initial incubation of the disease. In pet rabbits, the disease often progresses more slowly and death is not so rapid because of the care which the owner gives the rabbit.

Do all affected rabbits die?
Not all affected rabbits die. Although recovery is rare in the wild (probably less than 10% of wild rabbits eventually recover from myxomatosis) recovery may be more common in pet rabbits with intensive nursing. (if care is taken with feeding, making sure that water is available and medical care to combat pneumonia is given then recovery rates in pet rabbits are higher than in the wild but are variable depending on the severity of the disease.)

However, a word of warning -Myxomatosis can be very protracted disease and affected animals may take weeks or months to recover. Even then there may be severe scaling, scabbing and scaring on the head and body.

How can the disease be controlled?
The disease can be controlled by two main methods

1.Controll of insect parasites.
2.Use of vaccines.

Controlling insects?
Flea control is important and may involve not keeping wild rabbits away from pet animals but also positive use of flea control measures such as sprays, dips and insect repellant strips. Incidentally, there is some evidence that the domestic cat, which can often be affected with rabbit fleas, may be a secondary transmitter of the rabbit flea. Obviously, isolating pet rabbits from possible close contact with wild rabbits is sensible. Do not forget to control mosquitoes-it may be possible to use mosquito nets and insect repellent strips. Care should be taken that the bedding of animals is kept dry and that pet rabbits are not kept in moist conditions which favour mosquito activity. Veterinary surgeons will be able to give advice on flea and mosquito chemical control

Use of vaccine against myxomatosis
In Britain the licensed vaccine for the control of myxomatosis is ''Nobivac Myxo''. This vaccine utilises a virus called the shope fibroma virus which is closely related to the myxomatosis virus but does not cause disease. Occasionally, it is possible to see a tiny swelling at the site of vaccination but usually no signs are obvious after vaccination. this similar virus induces a degree of protection against myxomatosis. It is not a new principal to use a similar virus to control disease. For instance, Edward Jenner made the first successful vaccination in 1796 against smallpox by immunizing a patient with the cow pox virus. there are several other examples of related viruses being use to control disease in animals and man.

Is the vaccine live or dead?
Nobivac myxo is a live vaccine containing the shope fibroma virus. However, the virus does not readily spread from one animal to another and all rabbits in a group should be individually vaccinated.

Does the vaccine cause disease?
No. Nobivac Myxo does not cause illness in vaccinated rabbits the only clinical signs that may be seen are sometimes a slight lump at the sight of vaccination. This is a good sign as it shows that the virus has actually cause a swelling in the skin and this should confer a strong protection against Myxomatosis.

Does the vaccination guarantee protection against the disease?
No, vaccination can never guarantee protection against any disease but Nobivac Myxo when properly used, offers the best available chance of producing immunity against Myxomatosis. Rabbits that are exposed to Myxomatosis, but have a degree of immunity, do not usually develop the disease Myxomatosis. However, they may develop a form of Myxomatosis (atypical Myxomatosis) which presents as small skin lumps/nodules which resolve over a period of time. Extreme care must be taken to avoid stress and other ailments. It must always be remembered that rabbits are very susceptible to stress. Rabbits also suffer from common ailments which can prove fatal, one of which is Pasteurellosis. Pasteurella bacteria are present in the majority of rabbits usually without making their presence known, but at times of stress or illness, can cause signs of disease most commonly respiratory disease. This organism is the cause of "snuffles" in rabbits.

What is the vaccination schedule
A single vaccination should be given to rabbits over six weeks of age. Rabbits should not be vaccinated during pregnancy. Only healthy rabbits should be vaccinated. The vaccine may not be effective in rabbits incubating the disease at the time of vaccination. Following initial vaccination rabbits should not be exposed to infection for at least fourteen days. Some animals may be immunologically incompetent and fail to respond to vaccination.

Are boosters necessary?
Boosters are suggested annually for rabbits which are not under a heavy challenge from the disease. However, animals which are likely to be heavily challenged by the disease e.g. rabbits in a rabbit sanctuary, rabbits close to wild rabbits in a area where Myxomatosis, rabbits with a heavy flea population or rabbits in a area where Myxomatosis is rife are best vaccinated twice a year. Incidentally, most Myxomatosis in Britain occurs in the late summer, autumn and early winter months. When giving a single annual vaccination it is possibly best to vaccinate in May or June so that animals have the best protection during the autumn and early winter months. However, do remember that Myxomatosis can affect animals during any month of the year.

Nobivac Myxo
Nobivac Myxo is available from veterinary surgeons in the United Kingdom. It is a prescription only medicine (POM) and upon vaccination owners will be provided with a certificate of vaccination. The vaccine is available in a single dose vials for early administration.

Mircochipping
You vaccinate your rabbit against the risk of disease. But what do you do to identify your pet and guard against the risk of your rabbit getting lost? Microchipping is administered in the same way as a vaccination by simple injection and places a tiny microchip number can be retrieved by a simple portable scanner held by all charity, welfare and animal organisations who can use this number to link to your personal details stored on the national database. Thereby your pet becomes uniquely identifiable to you following one simple visit to your vet.

also be aware we still have a problem:

Sadly many vets are still administering the Myxomatosis vaccine incorrectly and this can contribute towards immunity being poorly established and leaving the rabbit more prone to nodular Myxi. According to the manufacturers guidelines 10% of the vaccine must be administered intradermally (between skin layers) as this is the point at which the disease first enters the body.

This can either be done by injecting into the base of the ear or into the scruff either prior or after giving 90% subcutaneously. Please ensure that your vet intends to vaccinate your rabbit using this method and if they don't or wont go elsewhere. If your rabbit has already been vaccinated incorrectly complain and ask for the 10% (and only the 10%) to be repeated FOC.

Generally it is the secondary infections such as RTI's like Pneumonia that eventually kill a rabbit suffering from Myxi.

It's also now recommended that rabbits are vaccinated bi-annually, every 6 months, against Myxomatosis. One of these should be given early spring (it takes 14 days for immunity to develop) before the peak Myxomatosis season.

Precautions against insect vectors can also decrease your rabbits chance of coming into contact with the disease such as fly barriers and the use of flea treatments.

Ahh I trust him with Treacle and Pidge - just wondering how one would tell it was done. *shudders at needles*

I can't even remember if it was the myxi Treacs had last time or VHD - was def one or the other with the other one next week!

I have to say I was really really impressed by it though - the daft furball didn't even realise it was happening and was as fine as rain. Think he might have quite enjoyed all the human cuddles too!

This might sound a little simple, but how can you ensure that the vaccine is given properly? Its over so quickly - do you have to rely on your vets honesty if you ask them?

Ask them what their preferred m,thod of administration is before they vaccinate and then watch them like a hawk whilst they do it.

Vets that use the ear base and then scruff are easy to see but the ones that do the scruff in two parts can be a little trickier if they are fluid in movement. Generally though you will see the vet stop and move the needle either in deeper or withdrawn slightly to give the second part of the dose.

Also remember vaccination should only be given to rabbits who are in 100% health unless their is a pressing reason to vaccinate early as it can have a detrimental effect on the immune system and myxomatosis immunity development to do otherwise.

Your vet should give your rabbit a full health check before vaccinating.

Hot Weather care for rabbits

In hot weather remember to check that water bottles are flowing freely. Make sure they are topped up regularly with cool, fresh water. Some rabbits will also appreciate something cool to lie against, such as:

An ordinary house brick that has been in the fridge for a couple of hours
A frozen bottle of water or
A freezer block
A bathroom tile that's been in the fridge for a while

Move hutches and runs into a shady spot.

Maybe reduce the amount of bedding as certainly many of my rabbits in hot weather kick the sawdust out so they can lie on the bare wood.

Check and clean toilet corners regularly. Flies will be attracted to them.

Make sure the rabbit is clean and dry, check round the eyes and round the bottom as any dampness could again attract flies.

Hot weather care for Guinea pigs

12 Tips For Warm Weather Care
The warm and humid weather this past Friday, and news of several upcoming days of 80-plus-degree and sometimes-humid weather, sent me scrambling to put my air conditioners in my windows. Despite the lack of sun, the air was uncomfortably humid

The next morning as I arrived for an appointment, another customer -- who recently adopted two guinea pigs from a town shelter -- greeted me with questions about what the guinea pigs would need in this weather. Experienced in caring for special-needs cats, guinea pigs are new territory for her and she was concerned about whether her non-air-conditioned, minimally-fan-equipped house would be okay for her new charges.

Below are some suggestions. For those who have menageries of pets that include some combination of guinea pigs, rabbits, cats, dogs, hamsters, ferrets, birds, and more, several of the tips and routines have applicability to your entire brood.

Make sure the water bottle is full when you leave in the morning. Depending on how warm the day gets, your guinea pig(s) could drink a full bottle of water in the 8-ish hours you're at work.
On days when you have to run in for dinner and then run back out for a few hours in the evening, check your animals' water supplies before you go back out. If they drank a lot during the day, they may have little water left by the time you get home...and won't have enough to make it through the hours you're gone in the evening.
Ensure that water comes out of the drinking spout when you touch the metal ball at the tip. This metal ball bearing can sometimes get stuck, preventing water from coming out properly or at all.
Ensure that the water bottle is big enough for the number of guinea pigs you have. Consider buying a bigger bottle or a second bottle to hang in the cage.
Make sure the bottle and drinking spout are clean. Buildup can make for icky-tasting water that the pigs won't drink. If your water bottle has a black rubber ring inside the cover (as opposed to clear rubber), dry it with a light-colored towel. If you see black smudges on the towel, you need to replace the water bottle -- the rubber ring is breaking down, adding a taste to the water that will cause your pigs not to drink. While you wash out the water bottles, this is a good time to wash out your other pets' water bowls (which can get a little slimy in humid weather).
Include "juicy" items -- like romaine lettuce, slices of cucumber, chunks of honeydew melon or cantaloupe -- in your pigs' diet morning and night (but don't go overboard). Some guinea pigs just don't drink a lot by nature, and enticing them with juicy fruits and vegetables ensures that some extra fluids are getting in their systems.
Leave the house cool and/or well-ventilated for your animals while you're gone. Have as many windows open as you can, leave fans going, or leave your air conditioning on low. But remember: Even in warm weather, guinea pigs can get sick from drafts so don't open windows that are right next to their cages or leave a fan (even an oscillating fan) going that can blow air directly into their cage. You can open windows in another part of the same room, or position the fan so that it will cool the room without blowing on your pigs.
If the guinea pig cage is right next to a window that gets a lot of sun, closing the shades, adjusting the direction of the Venetian blinds, or partly closing your curtains can filter out the sunlight (and the resulting heat) from their cage.
Move the guinea pig cage into a different room where you know your pigs will be cool enough. This might be a room in a shady corner of the house or one that catches a steady breeze, or it might be a room with an air conditioner in it. This way, you can close the door, set the air conditioner on low (so the room doesn't turn into a freezer), and keep your electricity bill manageable.
Putting the cage outside -- even in a shady location -- is NEVER an option.
Check the cage daily, and spot-clean areas of the bedding that have gotten wet during the day. Leaving such wet spots in the cage can lead to skin problems for guinea pigs.
Keep extra bedding on hand to accommodate daily spot-cleanings and more frequent bedding changes. During hot spells, you will go through a little more bedding than usual. However, the cost of extra bedding is still cheaper than the vet bills, time spent travelling to and from the vets, and time spent nursing your guinea pigs if they come down with a skin problem as a result of having to live on wet bedding.
Summer weather always presents challenges for pet owners. Some days turn out to be hotter or stickier than predicted, and aging animals of any species become less tolerant of the heat. Keeping your animals amply stocked with water, keeping them in cool environments, and knowing what the early warning signs of heat exhaustion or heatstroke are for the different species in your house will go a long way toward keeping your animals healthy and safe.

Appreciating that it's not always possible or practical to hump a large hutch around the garden chasing the sun every day in hot weather, we use a giant parasol to keep the sun off the animals, which is much easier to move and covers a large area. You can also car windscreen sun visors to reflect the sun off the hutches or runs.

Also please be warned that if using a frozen water bottle, your animals fur can and may stick to it, just like our fingers do in a fridges freezer compartment. A rabbits skin is paper thin and if it pulls away quickly from being stuck to a bottle, injury may occur. Pop the bottle in a long sock or down the arm of a chopped off long sleeved t shirt to protect the animals skin from direct contact whilst still keeping it cool.

Ah just thought of another.

I put a damp towel over some cages too

Merged threads for ease of reference as the hot weather is back upon us.

Hot weather and your pet in a emergency
Heatstroke is caused by the inability of the body to maintain its normal temperature because of the environmental heat. It is often caused by keeping a pet locked in a car parked in the sun or by keeping it in any hot area without adequate ventilation.
The signs of heatstroke are excessive drooling, lack of coordination, rapid breathing, and top of the head that is hot to the touch. Prompt treatment is urgent. Body temperatures often get as high as 107 degrees Fahrenheit/41.5 degrees Celsius, and without quick cooling, severe brain damage and death will occur.
Heatstroke can be prevented by making sure your pet has plenty of shade and ventilation. If you must take your pet driving with you, park in the shade and leave all the windows partially open.
Should heatstroke occur, use the following suggestions to help you provide your pet with the utmost care.
Step 1: Remove the pet from the hot environment.
Step 2: Immerse the pet in a cold water bath or continuously run a garden hose on its body; continue either treatment for at least 30 minutes.
Step 3: Apply ice packs to the top of the head; keep them there while transporting the pet to the veterinarian.
Step 4: Transport the pet to the veterinarian immediately after the above treatment.
Step 5: If need be keep your pet rapped in a damp cool cloth.
STEP 6: If your veterinarian is going to take some time to reach keep a flask of cold water that can be used to keep your pet cool.