I'm wondering if joining a dog training class would help my aggro dog? And more to the point would I be welcome?

We have got to the point of walking past stationary sitting dogs without a fuss 95% of the time, and are now working on moving dogs on leads on opposite sides of the road, though this is still extremely hit and miss still (40% a quick glance + walk on, 40% he really thinking about it but listening to instruction, 20% bonkers dog taking little notice of instruction)

Now I don't know anyone with dogs that I can keep walking him past and practising and dogs in the park are generally off lead and out of control which is a no go. So I'm wondering if a dog training place might let me join in, I could muzzle him so he could not harm any other dog if they accidentally got too close. The other thing he's not a puppy (he's 2) would this matter? Is there adult dog classes? He can do most things to be honest but the extra practise won't do us any harm and practising around other dogs seems to be the only way forward I know at this point.

Any suggestions, answers, experiences or recommendations or warnings to stay well away would be greatly received!

Just out of interest what dog have you got?You are more than welcome to walk past my 2 dogs one looks the other way and the other Layla wants to play.Can you not phone a class for some info and advice?

Thanks for the offer Waddy,

He's a mutt, no one really knows, some think he has some scent hound cross staffy with maybe lab, he is lab sized (27Kg) and quite powerfully built but not as muscular as a staffy, more lean.

I would love to take you up on your offer, I'm in S8 are you anywhere near that end of town? It would have to be walking at distance on leads though at this stage! I would not want him to scare any other dogs and make them worried, so they turn out like him :)

I will have to ring around the dog training places and see, I was just wondering if anyone had experiance or if there was a particular class for this type of behavour.

Evei,

You're more than welcome to meet up with us and practice walking him past mine - even Eddy's able to help with little things like that now! (So chuffed because I always thought he'd be the one being helped!)

Beighton ringcraft class have had dogs come in to walk up and down the mats past the other dogs and then leaving again, but beware - the 'trainers' there are very harsh so you have to have a certain idea of what you want to be doing and stick to it - don't let them put you off if you know what you're doing!

I also intend to have some sort of thing for dogs displaying this kind of behaviour when I set up but I'm not sure you'd be ok going to join an ordinary class as it's difficult what with owners paying to train their dog and a very reactive dog interrupting things :lol:

I'd also be concerned that actually attending a class would be too much for your dog at the moment - the last thing you want is to push him and end up taking a step back because it was too much for him to deal with.

So yep, you're fine to come walking past both of mine - on separate occasions if you like (one of each gender) but I think if it were me, I'd be asking if I could take him to watch the class from outside (not taking him in), reward him and leave.

This is something I would like to try with Josh at some time, but most dog classes I have contacted say that an aggressive dog would not be welcomed so I have had to set my own practices up, like walking past little dogs in their own gardens and getting him to ignore them, we have about 85% success rate when we go to the caravan at weekends, that really is a trial with all sorts of dogs and all sorts of owners, most of whom havent got a clue.

Must be honest I have just given up on classes as it does seem unfair to disrupt the other dogs but these dog aggressive dogs also have a need for training.

I know he will never be 100% reliable but aiming at 90% and me being able to control the other 10%.
I really sympathise, its like being some sort of social outcast!

What Lottie suggests, just taking the dog in and back out seems like good advice.

I also intend to have some sort of thing for dogs displaying this kind of behaviour when I set up but I'm not sure you'd be ok going to join an ordinary class as it's difficult what with owners paying to train their dog and a very reactive dog interrupting things :lol:
Reading the above Evie, I'd email the kennel club and ask for classes in your area which may be suitable for 'unsocialised' dogs, and see what they send you

Give a few places a ring and see how they feel about it

I used to take Brude to a ringcraft class for pedigree dogs to learn how to strut their stuff, but it was run by great dog people, and we (on more than one occasion) had dogs in who were rescues with issues just sat in the room getting used to the idea of loads of dogs who aren't in the least bit interested in them :)

They were usually asked to turn up early so they could get the safest spot away from the door, and everybody arriving was informed of the need for these dogs to have space. In a room full of experienced dog people, nobody batted an eyelid at wild displays of dogs feeling uncomfortable

Unfortunatley we've not been for a while, so I don't know if the same people are still running it

Give Beighton a go. The trainers there are no-nonsense people, which isn't easy to 'digest' if you're not used to it, but they're probably the best kind of people to help your dog on the next step

If you're going to meet lots of forumers' dogs, you might consider the fact that facing another dog is an aggressive gesture in itself, so being in the same space but ignoring is probably a better way to go - or walking behind and in the same direction

Thanks for all the advice! I think a class would be too much at the moment and I know I would not be impressed if I had a little puppy and some big nutty mutt came along and ruined the evening! I'll email the kc and see what I can find about Beighton.


I've noticed the head on thing; he's much better if the dog is walking away and not coming towards him.

He's developing an odd little run at the moment, if we pass a dog successfully I praise him as we are passing, the instant or just at the end of passing he either tries to runs ahead, or tries to get the other side of me away from the dog side, even when it is a good 30 metres away and paying him no interest in the slightest. It's a tough one as he does not pull on the lead normally and I don't want to tell him off as he's just successfully managed to pass the dog but neither do I want him to develop an odd fleeing technique that pulls the lead.

Thanks to the people who have offered to walk at distance from me (I don't smell that bad :) I will PM you as I'd love to take up the offers.

Give Beighton a go. The trainers there are no-nonsense people, which isn't easy to 'digest' if you're not used to it, but they're probably the best kind of people to help your dog on the next step


Unless your dog is fear aggressive - in which case their advice to 'yank and yell' in response to an undesired behaviour will do you no good whatsoever ;)

Hence, I think you really need to be confident in what you're doing to be able to say 'thanks but no thanks we'll do it this way'. At the end of the day - it's your dog and you have to be comfortable with it, I spent way too long letting other people tell me what to do when all along I knew what I was doing but just wasn't confident enough to say so.

The trainers there have now developped a stronger respect for me as I refused to use their methods and yet they've seen a huge change in my dog.

Thanks for all the advice! I think a class would be too much at the moment and I know I would not be impressed if I had a little puppy and some big nutty mutt came along and ruined the evening! I'll email the kc and see what I can find about Beighton.


I've noticed the head on thing; he's much better if the dog is walking away and not coming towards him.

He's developing an odd little run at the moment, if we pass a dog successfully I praise him as we are passing, the instant or just at the end of passing he either tries to runs ahead, or tries to get the other side of me away from the dog side, even when it is a good 30 metres away and paying him no interest in the slightest. It's a tough one as he does not pull on the lead normally and I don't want to tell him off as he's just successfully managed to pass the dog but neither do I want him to develop an odd fleeing technique that pulls the lead.

Thanks to the people who have offered to walk at distance from me (I don't smell that bad :) I will PM you as I'd love to take up the offers.

There's no need to tell him off at all :)

When he goes to flee, just stand still. Don't let him pull you and wait for him to settle back down and the lead go loose.

As he becomes more confident around other dogs he'll feel less inclined to pull away anyway but in the mean time he has to learn that pulling won't work. In order to do this, just stand your ground, if you can manage to keep schtum until he does finally let the lead go loose - all the better because he'll have figured it out himself and a quick 'good boy!' and moving on will be strong enough reinforcement for it to sink in after a few repetitions. At that moment in time he really wants to get away, so use that as his reward for not pulling away.

Does that make sense? I'm not supposed to post after 10pm as I tend to stop making sense...

I understood you Lotti - but that's probably no recommendation at this time of night either :D

I'd forgotten that I'd already decided what was best for my dog before I went to Beighton - but 'his breeder says so' carries a lot of weight when you know Brude's breeder as they do ;)

I am in sheffield 5 which is quite a way but we could always meet up.Do you drive?If so I have got the ideal place for our dogs.My Layla is a cross staff,taller and leaner than a full staffy.

Waddy, I will PM you.

I've had a few people willing to help me and the nutty dog out (have I got the nutty before the wrong part :loopy: ) so lots of thanks to everyone.


It is really appreciated :thumbsup:

i go to Wadsley Bridge Dog Obedience and they have a trainer there that in my eyes is a mircle worker with aggression i will always rember a man coming with a rottie who was aggressive and he worked with dave and another trainner and eventuall he got to the point where the rotti would play with other dogs with no aggression what so ever. he has worked with other dogs as well and got progress.

Vikki, Do you have a number for there? I might be tempted to give them a ring in a couple of months if he improves a little more.

Thanks

WADSLEY BRIDGE DOG OBEDIENCE SOCIETY
Description Runs obedience classes for dogs.

Contact Details
Contact Name: Ann Crookes/Steve Crookes
Telephone 1: 0114 230 1436
Email: crookes@moscargrange.fsnet.co.uk

Venue and Meeting Times
Christ Church Hall
Halifax Road
Sheffield
South Yorkshire
S6 1AE
Meeting Details: Mon 7-10pm

Second Contact
Contact Name: Wayne Barber
Telephone 1: 0114 286 2125
Email: barley.cottage@hotmail.co.uk

Thanks thats great, I will send them an email to see what they think.