OK team, do your magic SF funky stuff please!

It's 12 years since I last had to do DIY stuff involving the thread title. I'm now refurbing my nest and I've got an info gap that needs filling. I've forgotten it all and my google searches haven't been very helpful.

In short, I have use of a drill, I have wall plugs of various colours, screws of various lengths and fatnesses, mirror plates for a big bathroom cabinet, and am usually fully capable of practical man jobs. But I'm confused about how to match screws, wall plugs and drill bits to their respective appropriate sizes. Is there some rule of thumb? Are coloured wall plugs coded as to which size bit and screw to use? How long should the screws be for a double bathroom cabinet with four large mirror plates ? Some of my lovely new fixtures come with wall plugs and screws provided, but I still don't know which drill bit size to use. Is there a genuinely useful website that has this idiots-guide stuff on?

Also, what happens if you use a masonry bit on wood, and vice-versa?

Please help, because I'm starting to turn into a girly weed and it doesn't suit me!

http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Plastic_Rawlplugs.html


Masonry bit on wood => dull indentation, smell of charring, sore wrist.

Wood bit on masonry => slight indentation, blunted bit, maybe broken bit.

(you will get away with a wood bit on plaster and soft mortar, but you will ruin the bit in the process)

For most DIY fixings you're not likely to need anything other than 8 or 10 gauge screws for which 6mm plugs are generally used. If I'm using 10 gauge screws into masonry I use a 6.5mm drill bit and a 6mm bit for 8 gauge screws.

You have a hammer action electric drill I hope ? and do buy good quality drill bits, - drill the hole a couple of mm deeper than the plug and pull all the dust out of the hole with a screw.

Don't force screws into plugs, just turn the screw and it will pull itself in.

When attaching fixings to timber, - especially hardwwod and MDF, drill a pilot hole in the timber, use a drill-bit half the diameter of the screw. This will avoid splitting the timber and/or spraining your wrist as well a guide the screw in straight, - again don't force the screw in.

A knitting needle gauge is a useful item to have in your toolbox (or a proper drill and scew gauge if you can find one).

Accurate marking saves a lot of frustration so always double check where the holes have to go. If using a hammer drill start the hole without the hammer action and on a slow speed, this will give you much more control over where the hole is going to be ;)

Have fun :D

Get yourself to Wickes (or similar). Generally, the brown plugs require an 8mm bit (masonary) and will accept from a size 8 to a size 12 screw. Size 12 can be a bit of a squeeze though and will take a bit of effort to screw in.

They also do red as well as yellow plugs. I can't remember the respective drill bit size though - but it is on both the packaging as well as the plastic plug "carrier". They also have a crude screw gauge.

How heavy is the cabinet? How big are holes in the mirror plates?

I would be tempted to drill two or four small holes in the back of the cabinet. Place the cabinet to the wall and, once level, mark the first hole. Drill it and plug it with a brown plug/8mm bit. Use a size 10 brass round head screw with a cup washer behind it. Fix cabinet to wall with 1 screw (plus washer).

Drill next hole into wall through the hole in the back of the cabinet (ensuring cabinet is level). Fit plug and screw. Repeat for next two holes if you're using four holes.

I generally vacuum out the holes before inserting plug - but this is not necassary. It may be an idea to have a spare set of hands to hold the nozzle of a vacuum under the drill bit as you drill - the brick dust does stain. I have been known to inject a tiny bit of "no more nails" into the hole too before putting plug in - usually on a crumbly wall.

HTH

G

Thank you all, that's exactly the sort of guidance I was hoping for. Good tips as well. I'm going to be using my friend's drill, next week. I think I'll concentrate on the general fixtures first, and worry about the cabinet a bit later. :thumbsup:

Forgot to ask. How old is the house?

I used to have a 1900’s house – the plaster contained allsorts; pebbles, horse hair, bits of old builder, etc. It was a right !*&%! to drill accurately. As soon as I hit a pebble, the bit would move and the hole would be scew wiff.

If the house is a bit more modern, the upstairs walls may be lat and plaster on studwork, or even plasterboard over studwork. My 1930’s house has brick walls downstairs and internal lat and plaster upstairs. These often need different types of rawl plugs.


G

After watching my brother DIYing in my house, if you find the drill bit slipping, a teeny dab of washing up liquid on the end seems to give it a bit of grip. Also, if you are drilling into tiles, put masking tape over them first and drill through that (supposed to stop the tiles cracking!).

Also, if your cabinet comes with it's own screws, beware. Mine did, we fixed it up, and as soon as anything was put in it, it fell down... longer screws needed. :mad: